Our Behaviour/Part 4/Chapter 2
FASHION is called a despot; but if men are willing—nay, eager—to become its slaves, we ought not to upbraid Fashion. The worst of it is that the man who rebels against Fashion is even more open to the imputation of vanity than he who obeys her, because he makes himself conspicuous and practically announces that he is wiser than his kind. As despotic as Fashion may be, her despotism is exceeded by the class of persons who array themselves as distinctively "anti-fashion." They will recognize no good in any prevailing style, nor will they, if they can help it, allow others to do so. Setting themselves up as the arbiters in taste and health as they pertain to dress, they do not consent that others shall exercise a like freedom, but insist that all shall conform to their standard.
There cannot be greater vulgarity than an affectation of superior simplicity in dress. Between the two extremes a man of sense and modesty will only follow fashion so far as not to make himself peculiar by opposing it.
A sensible man, when fashion declares that coats shall be cut off and made into mere jackets, does not immediately appear in the streets with the shortest tail of them all. He is content to wear out his old coats, and only adopts the new fashion in moderation when to do otherwise would make him a marked object wherever he went. When it is ordered that tails shall grow again, neither does he make haste to be seen with coat-tails flapping about his heels, but is satisfied with moderation in length, as he was before in brevity.
A sensible woman, when fashion ordains that braid upon braid shall be piled upon her head, regardless of the scant supply with which Nature has furnished her, may find herself obliged to adopt false braids, but she accepts the minimum instead of the maximum which fashion indicates.
A sensible woman will not go lank and hoopless when prevailing modes indicate great rotundity of the skirt. She will use garniture moderately when others adopt it profusely; she certainly will not discard it entirely. There is one thing a sensible woman will not do, whatever fashion may insist upon—she will not allow her dress to trail and catch the mud and filth of the street, though all the feminine world pass by her in bedraggled skirts.
In the matter of underclothing fashion does not rule supreme. Each one is left in a measure to suit her own taste and convenience.
A lady's underclothing should always be neatly made, fine, white and scrupulously clean. If there is ornament, let it be delicate rather than showy. A neat row of fine stitching is more indicative of a lady than a multitude of edgings and insertions of imitation lace or cheap embroidery.
Both ladies and gentlemen should wear flannel underneath all their other garments, during the winter at least. Some physicians say during the summer also, but that must be optional with the individual. Suitable underwear can be found already made at the furnishing stores.
In ladies' apparel, next to this underwear comes the chemise and drawers, or a garment which is made to do service for both. In some respects this latter garment is preferable to the two separate garments, and is in common use in Europe, while it is being introduced here. It should be made with high neck and long sleeves, and at the neck may be buttons to which to fasten the collar or ruff, at the wrists buttons for cuffs. This garment saves the extra clothing around the waist, also the binding of the drawers, which, in order to keep them in their proper place, are apt to be fastened too tightly, and thus sensibly interfere with the functions of the body.
Next to this come the stays, or if they are not worn a waist which serves as a skirt-supporter. If stays are worn, they should never be laced tightly, should always have shoulder-straps of some sort, and the bones and steels which stiffen them should be few and flexible as possible.
The waist, if adopted instead of stays, should fit the body loosely and have rows of buttons around the waist by which to suspend all the skirts which may be worn, so that their weight shall depend from the shoulders instead of resting upon the hips. This is an important matter; and mothers should see to it that their young daughters' garments are properly arranged in this respect if they would have them escape the illnesses to which women are peculiarly subject. As few skirts should be worn as possible, the required warmth being supplied by added clothing upon the limbs.
Concerning outer dresses there can be no special directions given save that every true lady, while she conforms sufficiently to the fashion not to be conspicuous, at the same time avoids all its absurdities. Of dress for separate occasions we will speak in detail further on.
A gentleman may wear colored shirts in the morning, but they should never be of glaring colors nor conspicuous patterns. With a colored shirt a white collar and wristbands should always be worn.
There are few general directions to be given concerning a gentleman's underwear. Gentlemen find these articles prepared ready to their hand at the furnishing stores, and are not obliged to give the same thought and attention to them that ladies are.
Ladies and gentlemen will always dress according to their age, their pecuniary circumstances, the hour of the day, the special occasion and their surroundings. For an old person to assume the light colors and the simplicity of youth is no more incongruous than for the young to put on the richness of dress and abundant jewelry belonging to advanced life.
One does not come down in full dress to breakfast, nor wear a wrapper or shooting-jacket to a ceremonious dinner. A rich man may be forgiven for wearing a threadbare coat, but a poor man is inexcusable for appearing in fine broadcloth and dressing his wife and daughters in silks, velvets and diamonds. One should not go in mourning to a wedding, nor don light colors for a funeral. Nor need one. in a neighborhood of unusual simplicity appear adorned in the very height of the latest fashions. All these things would be vulgarities and indicate the doer as devoid of good breeding, if not of good sense.
General rules may be laid down in regard to dress which will apply to all persons, all places and all seasons.
It is the duty of every one to dress well and becomingly. Dress has much to do with the estimation in which others hold us. And there are few if any of us who do not feel more at ease and possess more self-confidence with the consciousness that we are becomingly and appropriately dressed.
Sir Joshua Reynolds says, "Color is the last attainment of excellence in every school of painting." And the same may be said in regard to the art of using colors in dress. Nevertheless, it is the first thing to which we should give our attention and study.
We put bright colors upon our little children, we dress our young girls in light and delicate shades, the blooming matron is justified in adopting the warm, rich hues which we see in the autumn leaf, while black and neutral tints are declared appropriate to the old. This is all right, and forms the basis upon which to build our structure of color. \Having decided what colors may be worn, it is next in importance to know how they may be worn. One color should predominate in the dress; and if another is adopted, it should be in a limited quantity and only by way of contrast or harmony. Some colors may never, under any circumstances, be worn together, because they produce positive discord to the eye. If the dress be blue, red should never be introduced by way of trimming, or vice versa. Red and blue, red and yellow, blue and yellow, and scarlet and crimson may never be united in the same costume. If the dress be red, green may be introduced in a minute quantity; if blue, orange; if green, crimson. Scarlet and solferino are deadly enemies, each killing the other whenever they meet.
Two contrasting colors, such as red and green, may not be used in equal quantities in the dress, as they are both so positive in tone that they divide and distract the attention. When two colors are worn in any quantity, one must approach a neutral tint, such as gray or drab. Black may be worn with any color, though it looks best with the lighter shades of the different colors. White may also be worn with any color, though it looks best with the darker tones. Thus white and crimson, black and pink, each contrast better and have a richer effect than though the black were united with the crimson and the white with the pink. Drab, being a shade of no color between black and white, may be worn with equal effect with all.
A person of very fair, delicate complexion should always wear the most delicate of tints, such as light blue, mauve and pea-green. A brunette requires bright colors, such as scarlet and orange, to bring out the brilliant tints in her complexion. A florid face and auburn hair call for blue.
There are many shades of complexions which cannot be described here, the peculiar colors to suit which can only be discovered by actual experiment; and if the persons with these various complexions cannot judge for themselves, they must seek the opinion of some acquaintance with an artistically trained eye.
Black hair has its color and depth enhanced by scarlet, orange or white, and will bear diamonds, pearls or lustreless gold.
Dark-brown hair will bear light blue, or dark blue in a lesser quantity.
If the hair has no richness of coloring, a pale, yellowish green will by reflection produce the lacking warm tint.
Light-brown hair requires blue, which sets off to advantage the golden tint.
Pure golden or yellow hair needs blue, and its beauty is also increased by the addition of pearls or white flowers.
Auburn hair, if verging on the red, needs scarlet to tone it down. If of a golden red, blue, green, purple or black will bring out the richness of its tints.
Flaxen hair requires blue.
The material for dress must be selected with reference to the purpose which it is to serve. No one buys a yellow satin dress for the promenade, yet a yellow satin seen by gaslight is beautiful as an evening-dress. Neither would one buy a heavy serge of neutral tint for an opera-dress.
A small person may dress in light colors which would be simply ridiculous on a person of larger proportions. So a lady of majestic appearance should never wear white, but will be seen to the best advantage in black or dark tints. A lady of diminutive stature is dressed in bad taste when she appears in a garment with large figures, plaids or stripes. Neither should a lady of large proportions be seen in similar garments, because, united with her size, they give her a "loud" appearance. Indeed, pronounced figures and broad stripes and plaids are never in perfect taste, whatever a capricious fashion may say in the matter.
Heavy, rich materials suit a tall figure, while light full draperies should only be worn by those of slender proportions and not too short. The very short and stout must be content with meagre drapery and quiet colors.
Tall and slim persons should avoid stripes, short, chunky ones flounces or any horizontal trimming of the dress which, by breaking the outline from the waist to the feet, produces an effect of shortening.