A Pilgrimage to Auvergne/Vol 1/Contents

CONTENTS

OF

THE FIRST VOLUME.

	PAGE
CHAPTER I.
The Bones of St. Omer.—Treasures.—Bethune.—Hortense la Picarde.—Female Presence of Mind.—Roman Roads.—Virtue of Holy Water.—Manna.—The Sublime.—Civil Wars of the 10th Century.—The Castle of Peronne.—Charles the Simple.—Mysterious Opening.	1
CHAPTER II.
Charles the Simple.—Marshes.—Chateau of Ham.—Eloquent Chef.—The Carillon.—Female Garcon.—Account of Laon.—Arrival at Laon.	17
CHAPTER III.
Laon.—Walk to St. Vincent.—Les Creuttes.—Tour de Louis d’Outremer.—Ganelon.—Vines of Laon.—Bêtes of Breuil.—Cathedral.—St. Martin.—The beautiful Abbess.—The tall Tyrant.—Eye’s Tower.—Place of Pilgrimage.—Fame of a Virgin	34

CHAPTER IV.
Arrival at Nôtre Dame de Liesse. —A picture of the of dark ages of Superstition—Pretty Hostesses of the Sacred Sign.—Holy Bottle.—Legend.—The Soldan's Daughter.—Miraculous help to the unskilful.—Fountain.—Broad hint.—Why black?—Pious Pilgrims.	59
CHAPTER V.
Coucy.—Château de Coucy.—Romantic Town.—Round Tower.—The Lion of Coucy.—Prémontré.—The Poet of Coucy.—Enguerrand.—The Harness-maker.—Therèse l'Ouvrière.—Storm Gabrielle.—The King's feet.—Coucy la Ville.—Moyenbrie.—Subterranean Village.—Rural Royalty.	74
CHAPTER VI.
Route to Soissons.—Dangerous Roads.—Misadventures.—Soissons.—Druidical Remains.—Roman Pavement.—Clovis and the Vase.—St. Medard.—The Abbé Dupont.—Louis le Débonnaire.—St. Jean des Vignes.—Thomas à Becket.—Louis XV. and the Bell.—St. Wouel and the Devil.	102
CHAPTER VII.
Reims.—Cathedral.—Roman tomb—Streets of Reims.—L'Ane Rayé.—Porte de Mars.—Streets.—Barbâtre.—Archbishopric.—Jeanne d'Arc.—Tapestry.—Walks.—Tawdry houses.—Choice of an hotel.—Caves and hills of Epernay.	131

CHAPTER VIII.
Château Thierry.—Charles Martel.—The Bonne.—The Heirs.—L'Embarras des Richesses.—Wedding at La Sirène.—Sleepy Driver.—La Ferté sous Jouarre.—Château de la Barre.—Acquaintance.—Approach to Provins	152
CHAPTER IX.
Provins.—Grosse Tour.—Pâté aux Anglais.—Roses.—Gentico.—The Vault of Champagne.—Gace Brulé.—Fortifications.—Churches.—Bears.—Fairs.—Prodigal Son.—A Royal Purchase.—Dolmens.—Stone with hundred heads.	166
CHAPTER X.
State of Champagne.—La Cigne de la Croix.—Count Thiebault and the soft Cheese.—La Reine Blanche.—Abelard.—Eloïse at Paraclete.—Love after Death.—Tomb of Eloïse.	195
CHAPTER XI.
Troyes.—Sign.—Streets.—Cathedral.—Indulgences.—Henry V.—Promenades.—The Bibliothécaire.—Route from Troyes to Auxerre.—Ervy.—St. Florentin.	208
CHAPTER XII.
Auxerre.—A quiet Lodging.—The Ogress.—Churches.—Chablis.—Marguérite de Bourgogne.—Tanlay.—Truce of God.—Famine.—Human Wolf.	228

CHAPTER XIII.
Montbard.—The Château de Buffon.—Fontenai.—The Houris.—The English Bishop.—The Cloisters by Gaslight.—The Dangerous Valley.	255
CHAPTER XIV.
Val de Suzon.—St. Seine.—Approach to Dijon.—Tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy.—Bonne d'Artois.—Passage of the English.—Sacred Relic.—Paintings.—Pitying Angels.—Diane de Poitiers.—Poplars.—Cours.—Promenades.—Bad feeling in France.—Churches.—Black Virgin.—Castle.—Variegated Roofs.	279
CHAPTER XV.
The Vines.	302
CHAPTER XVI.
The Cabaret.—Commeran.—The Gallic Cock.—Roman Arch.—Autun.—Roman Bridge.—The Shepherdess of the Pigs.—The Fairy River Arroux.—Fairy Guides.—La Pierre de Couard.—Cathedral of Autun.—Museum.—Campbell the Poet.—Brunehaut.—David.—Eumenes.	311
CHAPTER XVII.
Mountains of Morvan.—Château Chinon.—Froissart.—Storm.—Widow's cottage.—Military Butcher.—Nevers.—Virgile au Rabot.	331

CHAPTER XVIII.
Pougues.—La Charité Bourges.—Portrait painting.—Le Bœuf couronné.—Magnificent Cathedral.—Glories of the Cathedral.—Statues.—Don Carlos.—Reparations.—Druidical Altar.—Jacques Cœur.—Reverses.—Reaction.—The Secret Chamber.	341