A Pilgrimage to Auvergne/Vol 1/Chapter 15

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We were now preparing to quit the region of the Côte d'Or, and its vintages, so celebrated throughout Europe. It may not be considered uninteresting to some readers to name a few particulars respecting the growth of the vine, for the knowledge of which I am indebted to observations made on the spot by persons informed on the subject, and to some of the numerous publications which every season produces.

In Champagne and Burgundy pamphlets are continually appearing, as well as works of larger bulk, which hold out, as temptations to the purchaser, improvements in the method of cultivating the vine, or in the manufacture of wine. It does not appear, however, that much change has taken place since the time when Arthur Young, in 1787, visited the caves of Epernay, which have merely changed masters; and, instead of M. Lasnier and M. Dorsé, who had in ​his time from 50 to 60,000 bottles in those extensive cellars, M. Moët, of our own, can boast of having no less than three millions, and Mr. Jackson, of Auxerre, can do the same, besides numerous other merchants, whose fine country- houses and extensive grounds prove their riches and the success of their speculations.

To M. Moët, or his heirs, for he is lately dead, now belongs the famous vineyard of Hautvilliers, formerly one of the rich possessions of the Benedictines, every trace of whose convent is swept away; but the vineyard remains, and probably flourishes all the better, over the mouldering stones of the fallen walls, for the vine is generally said to prefer a stony soil. Some writers on the subject contend that "earth which is nourishing, slightly stony, rather light, and not humid, suits the vine best." The most advantageous position is on the slope of a hill in a south-eastern direction.

The summits of hills are too much exposed to winds; the bottoms of valleys and plains may be good for the production of the wood of the vine, but the grapes do not ripen so well as on the inclined coteaux. Bacchus amat colles.

It is not enough merely to plant; the quality of, rather than the quantity produced by, the vine, should be considered. Philippe le Hardi, ​Duke of Burgundy, issued an ordinance at Dijon, in 1395, expressed in these words: "Understanding that on the hill where the best wine in the kingdom is grown, and of which our Holy Father the Pope, our lord the King, and many other great lords, are in the habit, by preference, of making provision, there has been of late planted gamais, a bad plant, which has many times deceived and defrauded foreign merchants, by which much injury and loss has been sustained, it is hereby ordered that the déloyal gamais shall be cut and extirpated in a month from this time, under penalty of a fine of sixty sous each plant;" so desirous was the duke that the reputation of the famous wine of Burgundy should not suffer.

Those vines are said to be best, which are planted in cordons and run on trellises; but many are still grown on single props. This is the case at Chablis, and in some other excellent vineyards; but it appears that the support of the trellises is generally recommended; although, to a casual observer, a mere traveller amongst the vines, the difference is not very apparent. It is not uncommon to observe between the ranks of vines beans and potatoes, but this is a custom which is not approved. Judicious pruning is of the utmost consequence; ​indeed, as much is thought to depend on that operation as on the position of the vineyard or the quality of the plant. There must be great caution, too, in the choice of a vine-dresser; and there is always danger in employing a vigneron who is himself a proprietor, for many reasons, some obvious enough, but, among others, because certain operations should only be performed in certain states of the weather, and these particular periods he always contrives to devote to his own vineyard. "I know," says M. Clerc,^[1] "a proprietor, who being in treaty with a vigneron to attend to his plants, and having a high road at the foot of the vineyard, introduced this clause: 'I expect them to be dressed in such a manner, that passers-by shall think they belong to a vine-dresser.' " Another anecdote is characteristic. A proprietor passing his vineyard one day in a spring frost, found his labourer working, although it was a most injudicious time. "Bon jour, Monsieur," said the vigneron. "Bons jours are for you, not for me," replied the angry master, and passed on.

There is an old proverb which explains the different seasons when the vines may be expected to be productive; it is still quoted in the wine countries:— ​

Quand la pomme passe la poire
Vends ton vin, ou le fais boire;
Quand la poire passe la pomme,
Garde ton vin, bon homme.

The famous vin de la comète of 1811 was superior to any that had ever been known. When the Allied Powers occupied France, the soldiers, who knew but little French beyond the word comète, which they repeated incessantly, gorged themselves night and day with this nectar, which they exhausted, and of this incomparable crop the memory alone remains! That of 1834 is still boasted of with pride on the banks of the Loire; and I believe the vintage was equally fine in other parts of France.

By a singular contradiction, a very abundant year generally brings ruin on the vigneron, who, with his family, solely employs himself in cultivating his own vines. The reason is plain enough his casks and vats are overflowing, and he cannot dispose of his teeming treasures; his wine, therefore, remains too long in old casks, gets a bad flavour, and a thousand accidents happen which he has no power to remedy. It is otherwise with the large proprietor, to whom an opportunity is afforded of exporting more wine, and consequently gaining considerably.

Those grapes which are the most agreeable ​to the palate are not always the best for wine; indeed, that which they produce is frequently bad; and the reverse is also the case: a great change takes place in the course of fermentation, and the different operations necessary to bring out the real qualities of the fruit, so that it is impossible to judge by merely tasting the juice what it will hereafter become.

The plant which is called Pinot is reputed to produce the best wine, yet there are but few vineyards entirely planted with it; because, though the wine is superior, the produce is so small that the expense of cultivation is scarcely compensated by the price. For this reason they mix it with other grapes, and make what is called vin pinoté: this is to be regretted, as there is no comparison in the quality, and the buyer is defrauded who thinks that he has obtained possession of the precious juice of the real Pinot, a piece of good fortune which attends very few. If a Pinot is surrounded by plants called troyens, the flavour of the fruit of each will partake of the other; it is therefore desirable, in order to preserve the wine pure, that the plants should be grown separately.

In travelling in Champagne and Burgundy, the stranger is sometimes surprised that the wine given him at inns is so bad; but perhaps ​in no part of France is he likely to meet with so much bad wine, because all that is indifferent is "drunk on the premises;" and it often happens that an innkeeper has a small vineyard of his own, which yields wine enough for his purposes: he therefore presents his bad wine to his guests, trusting that the general reputation of the country will save him from the necessity of producing that which is more expensive. Every sort of flavour between ink and vinegar is to be found in Champagne, the ordinaire being in general poor at the best, and in most cases detestable. It is only at private to be had, and the tables that good wine is mere passer-by may hope to meet with it in vain. The common wine of Burgundy is better, on an average, than that of Champagne: as soon as the frontier is passed the difference is perceptible, and at Tonnerre the excellence of the first Burgundian vintage is appreciated: if by chance, however, the stranger tastes that of Tanlay, only two leagues off, he is struck with the inferiority of its quality. After all, there cannot be the slightest comparison as to general excellence between the wine of Bordeaux and that of any other ordinaire in France; but its price is out of all bounds in the two rival districts. ​It would be an almost endless task to describe the qualities of the different vineyards abounding in Burgundy. In the neighbourhood of many towns are small spots which produce a vintage greatly esteemed, but whose quantity is insufficient to make it worth while to send it from the neighbourhood. The famous wines of the Côte d'Or begin at Corpeau, below Dijon; there is the Clos, distinguished by amateurs, of Santenay, Morgeot, Gravières, and Chassagne, and the white wine of Meurseult. The renowned vineyards of Volnay and Pomard follow, with those of Beaune. Near Aloxe is the well-known and esteemed growth of Corton, considered equal to the Clos Vougeot itself. An excellent ordinaire is produced at Comblanchin. The celebrated wines of Romanée-Conti, Richebourg, and La Tâche, are found near the little town of Nuits, near which are the splendid vineyards of Vougeot and Chambertin. The wines of Beaujolais and the Mâconnais in general are more esteemed as ordinaire than fine wine; but some of them are distinguished by superior qualities, such as Romanèche, Thorrins, Moulin-à-vent. Those of the Châlonnais which have the highest character, are Givry and Mercurey. It is to be regretted, that the thirst of gain should so prevail as to go far towards destroy​ing, by degrees, a reputation which ages have established; and that the introduction, even into the best vineyards, of the proscribed gamais, which excited the indignation of Philippe-le-Hardi, should be still practised. There can be no doubt that this, if persevered in, will ruin the fine wine which has gained for Champagne and Burgundy a name amongst nations; and it is generally acknowledged that the quality of most of the celebrated vintages has greatly changed within a few years.