The Secrets of Specialists/Chapter 18

The hair, being an appendage to the skin, comes within the category of cosmetic therapeutics, and the conditions which apparently require the greatest attention are directed in the extreme opposite; therefore, too much, or too little, hair are the two conditions in which the physician is consulted for advice. A luxuriant growth of hair, in the right place is always regarded as particularly beautiful, but when hair grows in the wrong place, it is considered one of the greatest cosmetic evils, and a "mannish woman" is as greatly disliked by the opposite sex as the "ladylike man." It is, therefore, well to discuss the means of correcting and restoring these defects.

If we were to accept the theory of evolution, our prehistoric ancestors perhaps all possessed a luxuriant growth of hair upon their bodies, but as civilization has advanced, this condition disappeared, evidently, with our simian tail, and now we have only a stubby coccyx and a smooth skin, as ​a result of the evolutionary progress. There are many hirsute monstrosities, however, as is illustrated by the bearded lady, and the little girl, whose body and part of her arms were covered with a heavy growth of hair.

Image missingGuiseppe Mason's case.

Many of us have seen the lion-faced Russian boy, whose entire face was covered with hair, which gave him the appearance of a poodle dog rather than a man. The most remarkable case, however, was that of Giuseppe Mason, who was for many years, sexton of a church in Padua. In 1903, Mason's head became entirely bald, though he did not lose his beard; later, he fell sick with the la grippe and went to a hospital; while he was convalescing from his illness, a soft down began to grow, not only on his head but upon his face and body. This soft silky hair increased in length and thickness until he was completely enveloped with hair, as in the accompanying illustration. This case has puzzled scientists more than any ever presented.

We have two ways of destroying superfluous hair; only one of these, however, will give permanent results. All the so-called depilatories on the market depend upon some one of the sulphides for their destructive influence; of these barium, strontium, calcium and sodium are the elements in general use. Of these salts, barium has seemed to be the most popular. I prefer strontium, however, as it is less irritating to the skin.

The stereotyped phraseology of the advertising specialists is to advertise "it is a liquid," and I spent some time and expense to discover that it was sulphide of sodium they were using, as sodium is the only one of these salts which is soluble in water; it is also more irritating to the skin, but I believe the final results are better than those obtained from the other salts.

Dr. Lutje was the first to call our attention to the fact that better results may be obtained by applying the sulphide of barium, strontium and calcium while hot; by this method, the depilatory is less irritating and more effective.

To prepare such mixture 1.5 grams of strontium or an equivalent quantity of barium or calcium sulphide are triturated with 2 grams of starch and 8 grams of water, and the mixture heated to boiling, with continuous stirring; upon cooling, a creamy mixture is obtained which is as efficacious as the mixture prepared in the cold and does not irritate the skin. If this is immediately placed in collapsible tubes and kept hermetically sealed, it will last indefinitely and will produce a better article than most preparations found upon the market. This paste should be applied to the surface of the skin containing the hair, and in two or three minutes the hair will be noticed to shrivel up and apparently become dissolved. The paste containing the hairs may now be scraped away with the back of a knife or other blunt instrument; the face thoroughly washed and cold cream applied; this treatment is not intended to permanently destroy the hair, as most of the hair ​will return. I believe, however, that a certain percentage is permanently destroyed. This is verified by a series of experiments I have conducted upon my arm.

There have been several depilatories introduced from time to time for the purpose of removing superfluous hair, which have been sold under "a positive guarantee (?) that the result would be permanent." The commercial end of this business has been well taken care of by the mail order specialist. I have secured several of their preparations, and have never found any agent other than electricity which will ac​complish this purpose. As a depilatory application for the temporary removal of superfluous hair, barium and strontium sulphide heads the list. I prefer strontium, as it is less toxic, and differs from other depilatory agents in not evolving hydrogen sulphide. My favorite formula is as follows:

Triturate thoroughly and mix sufficient water to make a paste. This is applied over the surface containing the superfluous hair and allowed to remain five or ten minutes, when it can be removed by scraping the surface with some blunt knife similar to a paper knife, or it may be rubbed off with absorbent cotton; the face should be washed, cleaned and some bland oil applied. This will give excellent results, but will not permanently destroy the hair follicle. The only sure means of removing superfluous hair is by electrolysis.

Electrolysis is the only positive and permanent method of removing superfluous hair, and although the galvanic current may be utilized from a public lighting system, I prefer a special fourteen-cell battery, designed for cosmetic purposes (see illustration), as I believe the current is more agreeable to the patient and of sufficient strength for all cosmetic operations.

Before removing superfluous hair with the electric needle, the surface to be operated upon should be treated with a four to ten per cent cocaine solution, by cataphoric application, as is described on a preceding page; using the same electrode as is used for thiosinamine. The operating room should be provided with good light, as these operations are very tiresome to the eye. A magnifying glass, attached to the forehead, as ​is illustrated here, is also a great convenience, and if this work is done at night, the electric hand lamp may be used to a great advantage.

The surface operated upon should be thoroughly cleaned and dried, and the spongio-covered electrode connected to the positive pole, should be placed on one of the hands, previously moistened with water, and if your current is weak, or the patient does not press the electrode firmly, this electrode ​should be saturated in a salt solution, which gives strength to the current. The needle is attached to the negative pole, and held by a needle holder. The skin containing the hair is now stretched by the thumb and finger of the operator's left hand and the needle is inserted in the hair sheath, parallel with the hair, to the papilla; the patient is requested to press firmly upon the positive electrode in her lap. This completes the current, and if the current is strong enough, froth will be observed where it entered the follicle; if this does not occur, the current is not strong enough and more current should be turned on. Slight traction upon the hair, with the epilation forceps will determine if the operation has been successful. If the hair is not easily removed it indicates that the operation has not been successful and the needle should be applied again. It is well not to remove too many hairs in one area, as such operations have a tendency to leave more cicatricial tissue than those selected from different parts. After completing the operation, which consists of removing from twenty-five to fifty hairs at each sitting, the surface may be covered with oxide of zinc ointment or cold cream. In a few days, as soon as the skin is devoid of soreness, you may operate again.

There has been a diversity of opinions as to the cause of baldness, but it is the general belief of most investigators that it is of microbic origin.

​Prof. Unna, in the year 1887, was among the first to publish a paper advancing the theory that dandruff and subsequent baldness were of parasitic origin, and although his theory was not kindly accepted by many at first, his statements were afterwards verified by Morrell, who claimed he succeeded in isolating the dandruff germ—diplococus. Since his report there has been much investigation along that line, which prove that dandruff and premature baldness are of parasitic origin.

It has been noticed by many careful observers that seborrhœa often attacks several members of one family, who used the same hair brush and comb. It has also been demonstrated that mice placed in the combings of hair become bald rapidly and that dandruff rubbed into the hair of a rabbit will cause their hair to come out. I am of the same opinion as Dr. Bernheim, that much contamination originates at the barber shop. The less hair a man has on his head the more frequently he visits the barber shop and exposes others to the same contagion, by coming in contact with his own falling hair and dandruff left upon the comb and brush.

We also notice many men who lead public lives and use public toilet utensils, brushes and combs, in hotels, offices, etc., ​are also encouraging baldness. Another and one of the most convincing proofs that dandruff and falling hair are of parasitic origin is that the only successful treatment is based upon cleanliness, antiseptic and parasitic medications. Among other things which have been attributed to the cause of falling hair and baldness may be mentioned excluding the top of the head from light, air and sunshine, which is nature's greatest hair grower. Did you ever see a bald-headed Indian? Much credit is given as a cause of baldness to wearing too tight hat bands, thereby obstructing the circulation in the top of the head. The loss of hair is also associated with all debilitating diseases, etc.

Remedies for the treatment of falling hair and baldness constitute a greater demand than all cosmetic preparations and nearly every woman has some "favorite" hair grower.

Selecting remedies to promote the growth of hair will depend largely upon the condition we have to deal with, whether the scalp is dry or oily; dandruff and "itching" of the scalp are always preceded by premature falling hair, but without going into details regarding the pathology of falling hair, I will give a typical formulæ for these conditions, and state what we may expect to accomplish from such medications, before attempting to stimulate the growth of hair. The scalp should be thoroughly cleansed with tar soap. I prefer Packer's, or an egg shampoo followed by a bath in 1.2000 bichloride of mercury solution. This gives us a clean and aseptic scalp to work upon. Then the following hair tonics may be applied, according to the condition of the scalp:

Mix the castor oil with the bay rum, add the other ingredients and apply to the scalp with a tooth brush, before retiring. In resuming the therapeutic action of the above formula, we find resorcine is added to nearly all hair tonics for its antiseptic influence. It is closely allied to carbolic acid, but has the advantage over the latter, as it is odorless, more soluble, and non-irritant. Pilocarpus is added for its stimulating influence upon the glands of the scalp, to encourage their normal secretions; tinet. cantharides is incorporated for its counterirritant effect to stimulate the circulation and activity of the tissues of the scalp. Castor oil provides a temporary lubricant to the scalp and hair, and is the principal constituent of all "brilliantines," as it makes the hair appear rich and glossy. Glycerine has a similar effect and is also a mild stimulant to the scalp. The spirits of lavender comp. and bay rum form the menstruum. While this is the most excellent tonic for the dry scalp, we have absolutely another condition to deal with in the oily scalp—seborrhœa oleosa—in this condition the scalp secretes an over-abundance of oily matter and instead of attempting to stimulate the glandular secretions of the skin by the use of pilocarpus, our treatment is directed to check them by astringents; thus the formula would be changed as follows:

Apply to the scalp with tooth-brush, before retiring. In this formula we have substituted the lead and sulphur for the pilocarpus, because of their astringent and germicidal influence.

In using either of the above tonics, the hair and scalp should be thoroughly shampooed with a beaten egg, which is followed by a thorough bath with Packer's tar soap.

The essential requirements to successfully treat dandruff, falling hair and premature baldness, are cleanliness, antiseptics and stimulants, also the untiring patience on the part of the patient and physician. With this object in view there has been hundreds of hair restoratives placed on the market and many devices invented to promote the growth of hair.

In considering the requirements for treatment as enumerated above, the following simple formula is one of the best preparations, to my knowledge, to quickly and thoroughly remove dandruff and is what is known as

Mix. Sig. Apply about a tablespoonful at a time to the hair when dry and rub briskly. This makes a profuse foam which is very refreshing and cleansing to the scalp. After this has been repeated several times, the hair should be washed thoroughly with a good tar soap. Owing to the poor quality of tar soap on the market, it is best to superintend the compounding yourself by using forty parts of beechwood or birchwood tar to sixty parts of castile soap. After using these shampoos the head should be thoroughly rinsed with hot water, gradually cooled. The bath water will contain many hairs, which may give the patient the impression that the treatment is doing more harm than good; you should explain to them that the hairs which have come away are diseased hairs and would have fallen out in a few days of their own accord.

These shampoos should be repeated at least as often as once or twice a week. Some specialists use what they call "scalp food," which is used after the shampoo; these foods are mixtures of olive oil, lanoline, resorcin and mercury bichloride, and can be applied to a good advantage in many cases. It is applied with a tooth brush, rubbed into the scalp in the same way hair tonics are used. The next treatments used are what is popularly known as "hair tonics or restoratives," (see nostrums) and there is no end to the different combination of remedies used for this purpose. The principal thing to be considered is the combination of a mild stimulant, antiseptic, germicide and tonic. The remedies incorporated in these compounds are mercury bichloride and resorcin, for their antiseptic and germicide properties, quinine and nux vomica for their tonic effect, jaborandi or capsicum for their stimulating effect. The following formula will be found an excellent combination for promoting the growth of hair:

​

Mix and filter. The best way to apply this and other hair tonics is to part the hair about one-half inch apart, lengthwise the scalp and dip a stiff tooth brush into the solution and rub it into the scalp two or three times a week.

Another form of hair restorative contains a preparation of sulphur and lead. It not only acts as an alleged curative for baldness, but as a coloring agent in dying and deepening the color of the hair.

The following formula is a very popular preparation for this purpose: (The reader is also referred to the formula given in the chapter on the mail order specialist, and others parts of the book for vegetable and other hair dyes.)

Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, add the glycerine and tincture of cantharides and mix with the water, then add the sulphur and lead. Preparations containing sulphur and lead, when exposed to the light, form black lead sulphide, therefore, ​they should be kept in dark bottles. Patients using sulphur and lead hair restoratives should be cautioned that they are not entirely free from danger.

To recapitulate: The treatment of seborrhœa, alopecia or falling hair, should consist of thorough cleanliness, antiseptics and stimulants, which may be obtained by the first two preparations; the latter formula is not to be used unless you wish to darken the hair.

The secret of success in promoting the growth of hair and treating scalp diseases lies in untiring perseverance. This should be explained to the patient and no case should be admitted for treatment unless he is willing to continue the medication for two or more months.

The treatment of advanced baldness will depend upon the condition of the scalp; if the scalp is shiny and the glands entirely atrophied, there is absolutely no help except to toupee. If there are a few hairs left it offers the specialist a chance for argument and encouragement, and the physician's favorite quotation is often given: "where there is life there is hope."

All treatments for advanced baldness point towards one thing, viz.: to improve the circulation of the scalp. This has ​been attempted by blistering, electricity and the vacuum treatment; of these treatments the vacuum treatment is to be preferred, as it has many advantages in its favor. It is not claimed by specialists who use the vacuum treatment that it will create live hairs when there is none, but it provides every possible means of promoting hair growth under the most adverse circumstances; however, in no case will it restore hair to a perfectly bald or shiny scalp when the life of the hair follicle has been extinct. The object of the treatment is to loosen the scalp and improve the circulation, which is of much benefit in all cases of alopecia.

It is doubtful if the average man or woman has accepted kindly the familiar "golden text" from the bible, "the hoary head is the crown of glory." I am more inclined to believe that the poet has described our attitude towards hoary hair in the following verse:

In order to practice deception upon Father Time, hair dyes have always figured conspicuously with the most ancient and modern cosmetic requisites. There are two ways in which the hair may be caused to change its color or shade: the first is by simple stains, and the second is by chemical action. One of the simplest and most convenient ways of staining the hair a beautiful brown is to use a strong infusion of black tea in the early stages when the hair is just commencing to turn gray. This offers a most excellent means of maintaining its ​youthful appearance, and is the method used at most hair establishments in coloring switches to match natural hair. Sage is used for the same purpose and no doubt enters largely in that much advertised nostrum, "Ozark Herbs." Where stronger stains are required green walnut hulls are used, as in the following:

Grate the hulls and boil slowly in the pint of water for thirty minutes, strain, and add the other ingredients and sufficient water to make from ten to sixteen ounces, according to the strength desired. This makes, approximately, the same preparation as the much advertised "Walnuta" hair dye. Before using this, or any of the chemical dyes, it is always best to test the shade you desire by the hair combings, and the hair should always be thoroughly washed with soap and water, containing soda, before using any dye to remove all grease. It is best applied with a tooth brush and fine toothed comb, to protect the scalp, parting the hair in sections at the scalp and working the dye to the end of the hair.

Hair dyes proper depend upon their chemical action with the organic substance of the hair; thus peroxide of hydrogen in 10 to 20 per cent, or stronger solutions, removes the pigment matter from the hair, and gives it a golden color. A 10 to 20 per cent. solution of potassium permanganate will give the hair a brown tint. Resorcin will give it the red or "Zaza shade."

These dyes are prepared in two bottles, numbered 1 and 2. After thoroughly washing and drying the hair, No. 1 is ​applied with a tooth brush, taking care not to wet the scalp, which is protected with a fine toothed comb; when partially dry apply No. 2 in the same manner, using another brush. The following are the two formulas used:

Dissolve the silver nitrate in the water, and gradually add the ammonia water, stirring constantly until the brown turbidity produced has vanished and the liquid appears colorless. Then add enough distilled water to make one ounce.

A large excess of ammonia tends to produce a brownish dye. Various shades of brown may be obtained by increasing the amount of water in the silver solution. Always remember to thoroughly wash the hair, before dyeing it, with water containing sodium carbonate; well rinsed with clear water and dried, and the dye effect is better if the hair is kept moist as long as possible after being dyed. It may be wrapped in a turban of cloth, or better still, in the rubber bathing cap.

The above combination forms a dark violet solution. When this is brought in contact with any organic substance like the hair, it rapidly discolors it and imparts a brown tint, due to the hydrated oxide of magnesia.

​The hair is washed as stated above, and the dilute solution applied with a soft brush. The color is produced at once. According to the degree of dilution, this innocuous preparation can be made to give any desired color from blonde to very dark brown. It is this preparation which has recently been extensively used by ladies in their latest fad of coloring the hair auburn. Of course this preparation and other hair dyes may be used for the beard as well as the hair.

This and similar hair dyes consist of two preparations, preserved in bottles labeled Nos. 1 and 2; the latter, containing the silver solution, should be kept in a dark, amber-colored bottle, as the silver salts are decomposed by light. For use, some of the liquid from bottle No. 1 is poured into a cup and the hair is moistened with it by means of a soft brush. The liquid from bottle No. 2 is now poured into another cup and applied with another brush. These dyes are prepared in different strengths in order to color the hair brown or black.

The sulphide of potassium appears in fragments of a liver-brown mass which readily dissolves in water. The solution must be filtered before being poured into the bottle as it becomes turbid in the air. Keep in well corked bottles. When the two solutions are brought together, black sulphide of silver results and darkens the hair. After the use of this preparation a disagreeable odor adheres to the hair which may readily removed by washing.

No. 1 contains sixty grains of pyrogallic acid dissolved in 1 dram of alcohol and four ounces of distilled water; No. 2 consists of 1 ounce of nitrate of silver dissolved in 1 ounce of distilled water and 1 ounce of concentrated ammonia, to which is added one-half ounce of gum arabic dissolved in 3 ounces of distilled water.

Heat together in a water bath until the water has been completely expelled, then express, filter and perfume.

There are several preparations on the market, under different names, as Goldine, Auricome, Colden Hair Water, etc. ​These preparations are nothing but peroxide of hydrogen, perfumed. When this is applied to the hair as a bleaching agent, it should be diluted and the hair deprived of its oil by first washing it with soap and water.

The following formulæ will allow you to become familiar with many of the extensively advertised hair preparations:

Mix the bay rum and distilled extract of witch hazel and shake with a little magnesia; filter and in the filtrate dissolve the salt and add the hydrochloric acid. The agitation with magnesia causes the preparation to assume a yellow color, but by rendering it very slightly acid, with the hydrochloric acid, this color all disappears.—(New Idea.)

Dissolve the acetate of lead in the water, then add the glycerine and sulphur. Any aromatic water may be used for making the water.—(American Pharmacist.)

The American Druggist gives the following for this preparation, and it is my opinion that it is much better than the lead and sulphur mixtures: