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all that he did ; but it was quite worth while to pay well for the help which we received from him. We made the journey across in one day, and found the island of Ukerewe rich and fertile ; food, comprising dried fish, bananas, fowls, goats, sweet potatoes, etc., is plentiful and cheap. Unlike the tribes from Zanzibar to the lake, the girls here are without the slightest apology for clothing, which is one out of many indications that ideas of propriety and modesty are perfectly arbitrary, and vary greatly among different peoples. In Usukuma, for instance, while the women are all most scrupulously clothed, the men are stark naked, while in Buganda the reverse is the case. There girls up to a marriageable age walk about unclad without a thought of shame; yet the men, and even the smallest boys, are carefully covered. It was not till the second day after my arrival on the island that I reached Lukonge's chief village. He received me kindly and appointed a house for me to sleep in, and sent me some milk. The next day I had an interview with him. I found him a very sedate and rather handsome man. He said that he was sorry that the first white men had been killed, and that he would warmly welcome others who would come and "build"* in his territory.

The death of Smith and O'Neil was a very sad affair, and is involved in some obscurity. It seems that an Arab trader, Sungura, had married one of Lukonge's

* "Build" is used in East Africa to denote settling down in a place, j