Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/94
it would have left its bitterness by being boyl'd: but we found the contrary.
From those two Wells that were good for nothing, we travel'd six days before we met with any Water, which with the three days before, made nine and all that time the Camels never drank, as I have hinted already. At the end of nine days we cross'd a Hilly Country for three Leagues together, at the feet of three of which Hills there were three standing Pools. The Camels, that smelt the Water half a League off, put themselves upon their great trot, which is their manner of running, and no sooner came to the Pools but they crouded in all together, which caus'd the Water to be thick and muddy. Thereupon the Caravan-Bashi resolv'd to stay there two or three days together, 'till the Water was setl'd. Here we had also the opportunity to boyl us some Rice, there being good store of Bushes that grew about the Lake. But above all, the People were over-joy'd that they had an opportunity to make Bread, which they do after the following manner. First they dig a round Hole in the Ground, half a Foot deep, and two or three in diameter, which they croud full of Bushes, and then set them on fire, covering them with Bricks or Stones 'till they are red-hot. In the mean while they prepare their Dough upon a Sofra, or round piece of Copper, which serves at other times for Table and Table-Cloth to eat upon. Then they take away the Ashes and Bricks, and making the Hole very clean, put in their Dough, and cov'ring it again with the hot Bricks or Stones, leave it so 'till the morning. The Bread thus bak'd is very well tasted, not being above two Fingers thick, and as big as an ordinary Cake.
While we stay'd at the three Ponds, I spent my time in killing Hares and Partridge, of which there was very great plenty in those parts. The night before we departed we fill'd our Boracho's again, the Water being very good and clear; though it be nothing but Rain-water preserv'd in those Cavities, which in the Summer are dry again.
But now the Caravan-Bashi, seeing we had travel'd already nine days without finding any Water, resolv'd to leave the South, and to keep to the West; and if he met not with Water in two or three days, to take to the North-East, or Winter-East, in quest of the River Euphrates.
Two days after we had chang'd our Road, we pass'd between two little Hills, where we met with a Pond, near to which were two Arabians, each with his Wife and Children, tending a Herd of Goats and a Flock of Sheep. They told us they were going toward Moussul, and put us in the best Road to find Water; and indeed, from that place to Balsara, we never travel'd three days together, but we met with enough.
Five days after we had left those two Arabians, we discover'd a large Palace all of Brick; which shew'd some probability, that the Country had been formerly sow'd, and that the Bricks had been burnt with the Straw. To the Palace belong'd three large Courts; in every one of which were fair Buildings, with two Stories of Arches, one upon another. Though this large Pile was standing, yet no body liv'd in it, nor could the Arabians, very ignorant in Antiquity, tell us by whom it was built. Before the Gate of the Palace there is a Lake with a Channel, the bottom whereof is brick'd, as also the Arch, which is even with the Ground. This the Arabians believe to have been a conveyance of Water from Euphrates: which surely could never be, in regard that Euphrates is above twenty Leagues distant.
From that Palace we kept to the North-East, and after we had travel'd five days, we arriv'd at a pitiful Town, formerly call'd Cufa, now Meched-Ali, where Ali, Mahomet's Son-in-law lyes buried in a plain Mosquee. Generally there stand four Tapers lighted about the Tomb, and certain Lamps burning over-head, which are fasten'd to the Roof.
Though the Persians have Ali in so much veneration, yet they rarely go in Pilgrimage to his Tomb. The reason is, because that there being no way to come at it, but through Bagdat, which is under the Dominion of the Great Turk, there is a demand of eight Piasters from every Pilgrim; which is an Imposition that no way pleases the King of Persia. Sha-Abas scorning that his Subjects should be tributary to the Turks, endeavour'd to divert them from this Pilgrimage by another sort of Devotion, which he set up at Meshéed, upon the Road from Tauris to Candahar. Nor have the Kings his Successors been less unwilling to give their Subjects leave to visit their Prophet Ali, taking it for an Affront to pay Tribute to the Grand Signor.Which