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60
The  Persian Travels
Book II.

his Army, which was upon its march to the Siege of Babylon. Now you must take notice, that not far from Aleppo, toward the East, there stands a House inhabited by the Dervies, which are a Religious Order among the Turks; though it formerly belong'd to the Monks of St. Basil, and was a fair Covent. It is still in good repair, the Walls of the Chambers, Halls, and Galleries being all of Marble. All the Dervies of this House went half a League from the City, as far as Mount Ozelet, to meet the Grand Signor; and the Superiour, at the Head of the rest, having made a Speech to his Highness, two Dervies came and made their obeisance in particular. Which being perform'd, from that place to the Castle of Aleppo, for half an hours march together; they went just before the Grand Signor's Horse, turning round continually with all their might, 'till they foam'd again at the Mouth, and dazl'd the Eyes of those that beheld them. There are some of these Dervies that will turn in that manner for two hours together, and glory in that which we account folly.

While the Grand Signor staid at Aleppo, the Basha of Cayro came thither with a thousand Janizaries: And indeed, there never was a sight of Men more active, or better order'd. Every one of them had Scarlet Breeches that reach'd down to their Ancles, with a Turkie-Robe of English Cloth, and a Wast-coat of Calicut painted with several Colours. The most part had Buttons of Gold and Silk; and as well their Girdles as their Scimitars were adorn'd with Silver. The Basha march'd at the Head of this Magnificent Regiment in a modest Garb; but the Harness of his Horse was as rich as his Habit seem'd to be careless, having spar'd for no Cost to appear before the Grand Signor in a stately Equipage.

There is a necessity for a Man to stay some time at Aleppo, as well to dispose of his Affairs, and in expectation 'till the Caravan be ready, unless he will venture himself alone without a Guide, which I have done more than once. And thus much for Aleppo, next to Constantinople and Cayro, the most considerable City in all the Turkish Empire.


CHAP. III.

Of several Roads in general from Aleppo to Ispahan, and particularly of the Road through the great Desert.

There are five principal Roads from Aleppo to Ispahan, which being added to those other Roads which I have describ'd, through Natolia, make seven Roads into Persia, parting from Constantinople, Smyrna, or Aleppo.

The first of the five Roads, setting out from Aleppo, is upon the left hand, toward the Summer-East, through Diarbek and Tauris. The second directly East, by Mesopotamia, through Moussul and Amadan. The third upon the right hand, toward the Winter-East, through Bagdat and Kengavar. The fourth somewhat more to the South, crossing a little Desert, through Anna, Bagdat, and Balsara. The fifth through the great Desert, which is an extraordinary Road, never travel'd but once a year, when the Merchants of Turkie and Egypt go to buy Camels. Of these Roads I intend to treat distinctly, and in several Chapters. And first of the Road through the great Desert.

The Caravans that go to Balsara this way never set out 'till the Rains are fal'n, that they may not want Water in the Desert: and the Rain seldom holds up 'till December. This Caravan, with which I travel'd, set out upon Christmas-day, consisting of about six hundred Camels, and four hundred Men, Masters and Servants together: the Caravan-Bashi being only on Horse-back, and riding before, to find Water, and convenient places to lodge in.

I must confess I had the convenience my self to ride my own Horse, which I kept all the while I was at Aleppo. A liberty permitted the Franks only at Constantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo: for at Damas, Seyde, or Cayro, none but the Consuls are suffer'dto