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54
The  Persian Travels
Book II.

In the morning we cast Anchor, and went a-shoar. It is a good half League from the Road where the Consuls and Merchants, both English, Hollanders, and French, live in a very pitiful Village. However there is a little Monastery of Capuchins, who officiate in the Chappel of the French Consul; and another of Religious Italians, that depend upon the Guardian of Jerusalem. We staid but two days at Larneca; the Captain having nothing to do but to inform himself what business they might have for him at his return; it being usual to then to take in spun and unspun Cottons, together with course Wool for Mattresses.

From Larneca 'till we came in view of the Coast of Syria, we had the Wind very favourable; but at length coming to prove a little contrary, instead of carrying us to Alexandretta, it cast us to the Northward, two or three Leagues higher, upon the Coast of Cilicia, toward a Town call'd Païasses. Half a League from that City lyes a vast Rock, and between that Rock and the Land runs a very high Sea: And here it was that the people of the Country believe that the Whale cast up Jonas again; though the common Opinion reports it to have been done near Joppa in Palestine. All along that Coast from Alexandretta to Païasses, and farther, the way is so narrow and straiten'd by the Mountain, that in some parts the Camels and Horses must dip their Feet in the Sea: and yet you must pass that way of necessity, travelling from Syria to Constantinople. Between Alexandretta and Païasses it was, that the Chevalier Paul, in a Vessel that carry'd only three hundred Men, miss'd but little of surprizing the Caravan that every Year carries the Tribute of Egypt to Constantinople, which since hath never been sent by Sea for fear of the Maltesi. This Knight had landed his Men, and laid them in Ambuscade; but unfortunately his Design was discover'd, so that the Caravan, that might have been easily surpriz'd, stood upon their Guard.

We were near the Coast, when we discover'd a Skiff with fifteen or sixteen Turks, that were sent by him that commanded four Galleys of Rhodes to demand the Customary Present from our Captain. Those Galleys then anchor'd at Païasses, and had there discharg'd themselves of their Provisions of War for Bagdat, which the Grand Signor was going to besiege. And it is the custom, that when the Great Turk's Galleys are out at Sea, that whatever strange Vessel passes by them must send them a Present, either willingly or by force. When the Basha of the Sea, who is the Admiral of the Turks, is in Person at Sea, the Vessel which he meets is not excus'd for 2000 Crowns: so that when he sets out from Constantinople to cruise, the Vessels of the Franks do all they can to avoid him. There are some that will seek to escape in sight of the Galleys, but it has cost them dear. And it happen'd, that one day the Wind slackning, they boarded a Vessel of Marseilles, the Captain and Notary whereof were both seiz'd, and drub'd 'till their Bodies were almost bruis'd to a Gelly, and they had like to have dy'd upon it, without being the better in their Purses; for the rudeness of the Chastisement did not excuse them from paying the Money which was demanded. Whether our Captain knew any thing of this Example, or whether it were out of his natural heat of Valour, he laugh'd at the Skiff-men, bidding them be gone, and telling them he had no Presents for them but Cannon-Bullets. Thereupon the Men return'd to their Galleys, who soon deliver'd us from the true fear we were in, that the gallantry of the Captain had drawn us into an inconvenience. For while we kept the Sea close by the Coast, to observe the Countenances of the Turks, they weigh'd Anchor, and turn'd their Prows toward Rhodes. However, before they left us they sent us a Broad-side, and our Captain, whatever we could say, sent them another, which render'd us more guilty. For the Turks pretend that when their Navy is at Sea, or only one Squadron, and that a strange Vessel is in sight, she is bound to come as near as the Wind will permit her without being hal'd, for which they will otherwise make the Commander pay very severely. The Consuls and Merchants of Aleppo understanding what had pass'd, very much blam'd the Captain, fearing a worse consequence of the business: But by good fortune, the miscarriage was stifl'd and never went farther.

The same day the Wind veering to the West-North-West, we sail'd into the Road of Alexandretta, where we came to an Anchor, about a quarter of a League from the Land. Upon the advice which they have out of Christendom, so soon as they of Alexandretta discover a Vessel, and know what Colours she carries, the Vice-Consul of the Nation to which the Vessel belongs, fails not to advertise theConsul