Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/77
some one of the small Cords is broken, and that a Camel has got a mischance. The seventh Camel generally carries the Provisions. For if a Merchant have six Camels laden, he is generally allow'd one to carry his Provision; if he have but three, he is allow'd but half a Camel's load; but if he have nine or twelve, he pays nothing for the carriage of his Provisions of Food, or any thing else that he pleases. Every Merchant with his Servants rides by the Camels that are laden with his Goods, especially in the dark nights; for there are a subtil sort of Thieves, that have a trick to cut the two Cords behind and before, and without any noise drive the Camel out of the way; for having no Hoofs, his Feet cannot be shod, and consequently he makes no noise. As well Merchants, as others, Camel-drivers and Servants, keep themselves from sleeping sometimes by singing, and sometimes by taking Tobacco, and sometimes by discourse.
The Caravan lyes in such places as they think most convenient, chiefly near to the Water-side. When the Sun is set, the Shaoux, who are a sort of poor people, are diligent to guard the whole Field, and take care of the Goods. They walk up and down, and either in the Arabian or Armenian Dialect they cry one to another, God is one, and he is merciful; adding from time to time, Have a care of your self. When they see that the time grows near to set out, they give notice to the Caravan-Bashi, who gives order to bid them cry, Saddle your Horses; and after that, to cry again, Load. And it is a strange thing to consider, that upon the second Cry of the Shaoux every thing is ready upon an instant, and the Caravan begins to set forward in great order and great silence. Every one takes care to be ready, for it is dangerous to be left behind, especially in those Countries which are haunted with Thieves. The Wages of these Shaoux is the fourth part of a Piaster, for a Bale, from Smyrna to Erivan.
When the Stages are long, and that they believe that they shall not get thither by ten or twelve in the morning, every one carries two small Wallets on each side his Horse, and when they come to the place where they intend to Break-fast, they spread a Carpet upon the Ground and fall to.
When you go from Constantinople, Smyrna, or Aleppo with the Caravan, it behoves all people to carry themselves according to the mode of the Country; in Turkie like a Turk, in Persia as a Persian; else would they be accounted ridiculous, nay sometimes they would hardly be permitted to pass in some places, where the least miscarriage makes the Governours jealous, who are easily perswaded to take Strangers for Spies. Always, if you have upon the Road but an Arabian Vest, with a mean Girdle, whatever Clothes you wear under, there is no danger of passing any where. If you wear a Turbant, you must of necessity shave off your Hair, else it will never stay upon the Head. As for Beards, they never mind them in Turkie, the greatest being accounted the handsomest; but in Persia they shave their Chins, and wear their Mustaches: and I remember I have seen one of the King of Persia's Porters, whose Mustaches were so long, that he could tye them behind his neck, for which reason he had a double Pension. More than that, you must provide your self of Boots according to the custom of the Country: they are made of red, yellow, or black Cordovan, lin'd with Linnen cloth; and in regard they never reach higher than the Knee, they are as convenient to travel in as Shooes. As for Spurs, they never wear any, for the Iron at the upper end of the Stirrop, which is four-square, serves to spur the Horse: so much the better, because it is the custom of all Asia to ride very short.
Before you set out, you must provide your self of several Houshold-Goods, especially of those Bottles that are call'd Matares, which are made of Bulgary-Leather; every man carries his own at the Pummel of his Saddle, or else fasten'd to the Crupper of the Saddle behind. Besides these you must buy Borracho's, the most serviceable things in the World, for they will never break, and will hold above fifty Pints at a time. The smaller Bottles serve to put Aqua-vitæ in: and the Leather whereof they are made, has that peculiar to it self, that it keeps the Water fresh. Then you must provide Food, and make a provision of Rice and Bisket as far as Tocat: For as for Pullets, Eggs, and such like things, you meet with them almost every where; as also with Provision for your Horses, and new Bread, unless in some few places. You must also carry a Tent with all its appurtenances, with a Mattress; and Clothes to cover the Horses at night, especially in the time of thedeep