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46
The  Persian Travels
Book I.

fall out by the way. There is no honest man that covets the employment; for the Caravan-Bashi, being to discharge several small duties upon the Road, however he behave himself, is still suspected for his fidelity. When the Turks are most numerous, they make choice of a Turk, when the Armenian Merchants are most, they choose an Armenian.

There are two sorts of Caravans. There are Caravans which consist of Camels, which are the most usual; in regard that Camels are cheap, and for that some Camels will carry as much as three Horses, others as much as four or five. But among the Caravans of Camels, there are several Horses and Mules, which the Merchants themselves ride upon; it being very tedious to ride upon a Camel when he only goes a foot-pace, but very pleasant when he goes upon his large trot. There are other Caravans that consist only of Horses; and among these, if the Merchant have none of his own, he may hire one. The Servants ride upon those Horses that are least laden; but at Smyrna you may meet with several good Horses very cheap, from thirty to sixty Crowns. As for those persons that are either unwilling or unable to be at any expence, they make use of Asses, of which there are enow to be had. Above all things, you must take care to provide Pack-Horses to carry your Wine; for the Camel-Masters being Mahometans, will not permit you to lade their Camels with any such Liquor; that Beast being particularly consecrated to Mahomet, who so strictly forbad the use of Wine. You put your Wine in Bottles made of wild Goats Skins, with the hairy side turn'd innermost, and well pitch'd within. There are some of these Bottles from which they take off the Hair; but they are not so good, as being seldom without holes.

These Camel-Masters are an insolent sort of people, which you shall never know how to deal with, unless you can bring them to punishment. There was one that play'd me some of his jades tricks in the Road from Smyrna to Tauris; but when I came to Escrivan, I complain'd to the Kan, who presently caus'd a hundred Bastnado's to be giv'n him upon the spot. Nor is there any other way to bring those Scoundrels to reason, especially at Smyrna and such other places, where the Merchants have their Consuls, who upon the least complaint to the Cady have Justice done them immediately. The examples of some of these Camel-drivers that have been paid off, keep the rest in good decorum; and they will be very tractable for a good while after.

The Journies of the Caravans are not equal; sometimes not above six hours travel, sometimes ten, and sometimes twelve; it being the convenience of Water, which is not every where to be met with, that is the Rule of Lodging the Caravan. At all times the Caravan travels more by night than by day in Summer to avoid the heat, and at other times, that you may be sure to have day enough to set up your Tents. For if the Caravan should come to pitch in the night, it would be impossible for them to find where to set up their Tents, to dress and look after their Beasts, make ready their Kitchins, and provide things necessary for so large a Company. True it is, that in the depth of Winter and in the great Snows, they seldom set out till two or three hours after midnight and that sometimes they stay till day-break. But in Summer, according to the Journey which they intend, they set out either at midnight, or an hour after Sun-set. The last time I went from Smyrna the Caravan consisted of six hundred Camels, and almost the same number of Horse. Sometimes their number is greater, so that the Camels going but by one and one after another, a Caravan seems to be an Army, and whether it be in travelling or lodging, they take up a world of Ground. Now by reason they travel all night in Asia, it happens that the Air is indifferent wholsom; and that the Travellers, that lye for the most part upon a Carpet spread upon the Ground, find themselves very little inconvenienc'd by it.

The Camels that go into Persia through the Northern Provinces of Turkie, travel like Horses in a Cart, by seven and seven; they are ty'd together by a Cord about the bigness of a Man's little Finger, and a Fathom long; fasten'd to the Pack-saddle of the Camel that goes before, and to the Head-harness of the Camel that follows. Those little Cords are made no stronger, to the end that if the Camel before should chance to fall into any hole, the Camel behind should either keep him up, or else not be pull'd in after the other. And to the end that the Camel-driver who leads the foremost, may know whether the other six follow him or no, the last Camel has a Bell about his Neck, which if it cease to ring, 'tis a sign thatsome