Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/64
Inhabitants. Besides, there hardly passes a Year but the City is infested with the Plague, which however is not so violent as in Christendom. The Turks neither fear it nor flie it, believing altogether in Predestination. Yet I believe, if the Inhabitants of Smyrna would take care to drain away the standing Puddles that gather in the Winter about the City, they would not be so frequently molested with the Plague as they are. It is most rife in May, June, and July, but the malignant Fevers that succeed it in September and October are more to be fear'd, more People dying of them than of the Pestilence. In all my Travels I never was in Smyrna at these unfortunate Seasons. There is no Basha in that City; it being govern'd only by a Cady, who is not so severe to the Christians as in other places: For should he abuse his Office, Constantinople is at hand, where you may complain to the Mufti, and have relief; who for some good Present may be easily perswaded to depose the Cady, as being glad of the opportunity to displace him, and to put another in his room.
The Customs of Smyrna yield a great Revenue to the Grand Signor, being paid there very exactly. But were there a certain Rate put upon Commodities, the Merchants, who would otherwise be losers, would not study so many ways as they do to deceive the Customers: For those Customers lay what Price they please upon Commodities, valuing that at a thousand Crowns, which perhaps is not worth three hundred, being absolute Masters of the Rate. In my last Voyage to Smyrna, four Dutch Women that went thither in our Ship from their own Country, carry'd a-shoar under their Coats whatever I had of rich Merchandize: for the Turks have such a respect for that Sex, that they will not so much as offer to search them. If a man be tak'n in stealing Customs, there is no other punishment than to pay double.
The Trade of Smyrna is very great, and the principal Merchandizes which the Franks transport from thence, are raw Silk, which the Armenians bring out of Persia; Chamlet-yarn, and Chamlet or Goats-hair, which come from a little City call'd Angouri, fifteen or sixteen days journey from Smyrna; Cotton twisted; Skins and Cordovans of several colours; Calicuts, white and blew; great quantities of Wool for Mattresses, Tap'stries, quilted Coverlets, Soap, Rhubarb, Galls, Valanede, Scammony, and Opium; which four last Commodities are to be had in the Countries near to Smyrna, but not in great quantities. The Caravans come generally to this Town in the Months of February, June, and October; and depart again to the Countries from whence they came the same Months.
Ephesus not being above a day and a halfs journey from Smyrna, on Horse-back I took an opportunity to go thither. There were twelve of us that joyn'd together, Franks and Hollanders, who took three Janisaries along with us, and three Horses to carry our Provision.
We travel'd this little Journey in the Summer, and setting out of Smyrna about three of the Clock in the Afternoon, we rode through a Country part Plains, and part Hills, till we came to a great Village, where we sup'd.
After we had staid there three hours, we took Horse and travel'd till Midnight, to avoid the Heats: By the way we met with nine or ten Arches, very narrow; which we could not conjecture to be any thing else than the Ruines of some Aqueduct. From thence to Ephesus the way is very pleasant, through little Thickets watred with Rivulets.
A quarter of a League from Ephesus you meet with another Mosquee, which was formerly a Christian Church, built out of the Ruines of the Temple of Ephesus. This Mosquee stands enclos'd with Walls, and you must ascend up to it by two Ascents of twelve Steps a-piece, which bring you to a large Passage. From thence you enter into a large Cloyster, the Arches whereof are sustain'd with Marble Pillars of several colours, delicately wrought; and the lower part of the Gallery, which runs along three of the sides, that consists of great Squares of Stone. The Mosquee takes up the fourth side upon the left hand, the Gate being in the middle. The Mosquee it self is a wide Arch, supported by five Columns, all of most exquisite Work. There are four of Marble, and every one of a different Colour; but the fifth is a most rare piece, being of Porphyry, and the bigness of it makes it so much the more to be admir'd.
Ephesus does not look like a City, being so absolutely ruin'd, that there is not a House standing. It was built upon the descent of a Hill, in a situation not muchunlike