Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/62

Smyrna is at this day for Trade, whether it be by Sea or Land, one of the most celebrated Cities of all the Levant, and the greatest Market for all sorts of Commodities which are transported out of Asia into Europe, or out of Europe into Asia. Hither all the Western Fleets are most regularly bound, that came formerly no farther than Ligorn, and from whence, at times most regularly appointed, the fairest Caravans set out.

This City lyes in 50 Degrees of Longitude; and 38 Degrees, 45 Minutes of Latitude; at the bottom of a Gulf in the Archipelago, which is seven Leagues in length, upon the right side of the Isthmus which begins to form the Peninsula of Clazomene, right against the Iland of Schio. It lyes in that part of the Lesser Asia, which the Greeks possess'd, under the Name of Iconium; at a distance almost equal, between Ephesus and Sardis; and was one of the seven Churches mention'd in the Revelation of St. John. It is at this day a great City, built like an Amphitheater, upon the descent of a Hill that looks toward the Summer-West. But it is neither so great, nor so beautiful as formerly it was, as may be easily conjectur'd by the Ruines of certain Edifices that remain upon that Hill, which from the middle to the top, where the ancient City stood, are altogether uninhabited. There are also to be seen the Walls of a fair Castle, and above that the Ruines of an Amphitheater, where they say St. Polycarp was expos'd to fight with Lions. This Amphitheater was not in the form of those other, which are usually round; for it contained but half a Circle, being left open to the Sea-side. The Turks have almost quite destroy'd it: making use of the Stones to build a Fort two Leagues from the City, upon the Gulf, where the passage is very narrow; which the Ships are forc'd to salute as they enter in, and to speak with when they sail out. Moreover, that they might not be put to send for Stones a-far off, they consulted whether they might not make use of the Stones of the Christians Monuments, as also of those of the Jews, which are near the Shore: But they took very few, whether out of kindness to the Tombs, or whether they did not think them so proper for use as the Stones of the Amphitheater. This Castle had not been long built, but upon an occasion very remarkable. In the last Wars of the Turks with the Venetians the Ottoman Fleet having been beaten in the Archipelago, the Grand Signor resolv'd to re-fit another to Sea, and thereupon sent to all the parts of his Empire, where he knew any English or Holland Vessels usually were wont to ride, to solicit them to serve him for his Pay. More particularly he aim'd at those Vessels which were in Smyrna, where there were generally more than in any other Port. But the Captains, who rejected his Proposition of fighting against the Venetians, believing that he would put some force upon them, suddenly hois'd Sail and got away; it being at a time when he could not keep them in, having no Castle then built to command them. The Grand Visier nettl'd at the refusal of the Captains, as an affront done to his Master, and to see that the Ships could come in and go out, without any let or molestation, bethought himself (to the end he might keep them for the future under subjection) of building a Fort upon the Gulf, in such a part where the Vessels must necessarily touch; where now there lye great Cannons level with the Water, which no Vessel can escape. Ever since the Convoys will not come to Smyrna, as they were wont to do, but lye out at Sea, out of the reach of the Fort.

Near to the Sea are yet to be seen some Remains of a Church, two sides whereof seem to have been distinguish'd into Chappels by little Walls, which are yet standing: But the Natives doubt whether they be the Ruines of a Church dedicated to St. Polycarp, or of an ancient Temple of Janus.

Smyrna has been oftentimes ruin'd either by the Wars, or by the Earthquakes which often happen there. One time that I staid there, there happen'd one, which did not last long, but was very terrible. About sixty Paces from the Sea are to be discern'd the Ruines of great Walls two Foot under Water; and at the end of theCity