Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/54

From Tauris to Ispahan the Caravan makes it generally twenty-four days journey.

The first day you cross over dry Mountains, and four Leagues from Tauris you meet with one of the fairest Inns in Persia. This Inn Sha-Sefi caus'd to be built; it is very convenient, and large enough to lodge a hundred persons with their Horses. Over all Persia, especially from Tauris to Ispahan, and from thence to Ormus, you meet every day with Inns at an equal distance.

The next day you descend a Mountain, in very rugged and narrow way. At the foot of this Mountain there are two ways for the Merchants to choose that will go to Ispahan. They that will go the ordinary road and the direct way through Kom and Kachan, leave a Lake upon the left hand that parts the two Roads; and they that will go through Ardevil and Casbin, two other good Cities, leave the Lake upon the right hand, and coast along by the side of the Mountain. From Tauris to Ardevil it is not above a dozen Leagues; and having pass'd the Lake, the Country is very good: Which is the Road I intend to describe first.

Ardevil being at so small a distance from Tauris, lyes almost in the same Degrees and Minutes of Longitude and Latitude. This City is famous, as well for being the first Market of Silks that come from Guilan, from which it is not far off; as also for the Sepulcher of Sha-Sefi, the first of that Name, King of Persia. The avenues to it are very pleasant, being as it were Alleys of great Trees, which are call'd Tchinar, planted in a streight line, at a due distance. It is of a moderate bigness, and seated in a lovely opening of the Mountains. The next to the City, which is call'd Sevalan, is the highest in all Media. The Houses of Ardevil are built of Earth, as are most of the Houses in the Cities of Persia: but the Streets are very uneven, dirty, and narrow. There is but one which is handsom, at the end whereof is built the Armenian Church. A little River runs through the middle of the City, which descending from the neighbouring Mountains runs from East to West. It is by Industry brought into many Cutts to water the Gardens, and in many places there are very fair Trees planted, which are very delightful to the Sight. The Meydan or Market-place is a very great one; more long than round; where stands a very fine Inn, upon one side, which the Kan caus'd to be built. There are several others in several parts of the City, which have the Prospect over several lovely Gardens, especially that which belongs to the King; to which you go through a long and stately Walk of four rows of Trees, at the end whereof stands a large Gate that gives you entrance. Though the Country about Ardevil be proper to bear Vines, yet there are none thereabouts; nor is there any Wine made till about four or five Leagues from the City. The Armenians that dwell in the City are very well stor'd with it, though there be no place in all Persia, where there is so much Caution to be us'd, either as to the Importing it, or the Drinking it, both which must be done very privately: Which proceeds from the Mahometan Superstition; the Persians having so peculiar a Veneration for that place, that they believe it a Sin to suffer Wine to be publickly drank therein.

The People come in Pilgrimage from all parts of Persia to the Sepucher of Sha-Sefi, which together with the vast Trade of Silk, makes Ardevil one of the most considerable Cities of all Persia. There are several other Buildings added to the Mosquee wherein he lyes interr'd; the Entry whereof faces the Meydan, to which it is joyn'd upon the South-side with a large Portal. The Gate is chain'd with Chains fasten'd a-cross with great Rings; which if any Criminal Offender can but touch, and enter into the first Court, he is safe; for no person can apprehend him. This is a large Court, yet more in length than breadth, without the Wall whereof that looks upon the Market-place, several Shops are built for Merchants and Tradesmen.

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