Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/48
into a great Hall, where we were very well treated. For it is the custom of the Armenians, a little before Meals to present their Guests a large Cup of Aqua-vitæ, with Sweet-meats of all sorts, besides Citron and Orange-peels candy'd, in seven or eight Porcelan-dishes, laid in a great China-Basin. This is a little Prelude to excite the Appetite; for the Armenians, both Men and Women, will empty great Cups of Aqua-vitæ. After Dinner they go to Church, where they sing certain Hymns: when you return, there are a sufficient number of Mattresses or Quilts to lye upon; for they use no other sort of Beds over all Asia: only at Night you spread a Carpet upon a Quilt, and shut the Door. We saw not the Archbishop all that Evening, only at Church.
About Midnight all the Bells rang, and every body rose to go to Church. I believe it was more than usual, because it was Shrovetide; for both the Office and the Missa were both concluded by break of day. Between eight and nine in the Morning the Cloth was laid; before which time we saw abundance of the neigbouring Country People, who brought Wine, Fruits, and other Provisions, and presented all to the Archbishop.
While we were at Breakfast news came that a certain Bishop was dead, in his return to the Three Churches; whither he was sent by the Patriarch to gather certain Duties due from the Villages. Immediately the Archbishop rising from the Table with all his Assistants, and having made a Prayer for the Dead, sent a Bishop and six Monks to fetch the Corps; who returning a little after Midnight, the Body was presently laid in the Church upon a Carpet spread upon the Ground, with the Face turn'd toward the Altar. In the mean time, a great number of Wax-candles were lighted, and all the rest of the Night two Monks watch'd by turns to Pray for the Dead. Early in the Morning the Archbishop, the Bishops and all in Religious Orders, said the Office for the Dead, which lasted half an Hour; and at the end of the Mass they brought the Corps to the Altar, so that they made the Feet of the Corps to touch it. Having so done, they took off the Linnen Cloth that cover'd his Head, at which time the Archbishop anointed him in six places with the Holy Oyl, saying certain Prayers every time. Then they cover'd him again, and said other Prayers which lasted half an Hour. These Ceremonies perform'd, they carry'd the Corps out of the Church with Crosses and Banners, and every one a Taper in his Hand. As the Corps pass'd by, one of the Bishops put a Paper in his right Hand, containing these Words, I came from the Father, and I return to the Father. Being brought to the Grave, upon a little Mountain near the Covent, and set down, they said other Prayers which lasted a quarter of an Hour. In the mean time a Bishop going down into the Grave, took away all the Stones and made the place smooth, after which the Corps was let down wrapt in a large Linnen Sheet. Then the Bishop, according to their custom, rais'd his Head a little higher than his Body, turning his Face to the East. Which being done, the Archbishop and Assistants took every one a handful of Earth, which the Archbishop blest, and giving it to the Bishop, he strew'd it over the Body. Then the Bishop coming out again, the Grave was fill'd up.
From St. Stephen's there is a descent for a League together to Aras, by the side whereof you are to keep along till you come to Zulfa, where you come into the high Road again. There is another way quite over the Mountain, which is the nearer way by a League, but 'tis very troublesom and toylsom, and therefore the less frequented.
But to return to the High-Road from Naksivan; half a League from Naksivan you meet with a River which falls into Aras, which is to be cross'd over a Stone-Bridge of 12 Arches, though there be but little Water, unless it be when the Snow melts, or the Rains fall. In a Meadow, next the Bridge, where we lodg'd one time that I travell'd that way, there is a Spring of lukewarm Water, which will loosen the Bellies of them that drink it. At this Bridge it is that the Toll-gatherer comes and takes his Duties, when the Caravan stays not at Naksivan. You must pay ten Abassi's for every Camel's Loading, or nine Livres, which is for the securing the Highways. These Duties are demanded in many places of Persia without searching the Packs. The Governours also in their Provinces are made to answer for every Robbery committed: which makes it so safe travelling in Persia, that you need not keep with the Caravan, unless you will your self.
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