Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/47

with Fevers. There are two or three of those Covents, where they civilly entertain such Christians as come out of Europe; though the Monks, there, are very poor. They also live very austere Lives, feeding upon nothing but Herbs. That which makes them so poor, is the often change of Tyrannical Governours, whom they are oblig'd to present with large Gifts. But in regard they cannot give much, those Governours have no kindness for them; for which reason, being instigated by those other Armenians who are able to oblige them, they use them so severely that they are often forc'd to complain to the King; which I have many times seen done at Ispahan.

A League and a half from the chief of these Covents there is a high Mountain, separated from all the rest, which rises like a Sugar-loaf, as doth the Pike of Tenariff. At the foot of this Mountain are certain Springs, that have the virtue to heal those that are bit by Serpents; in so much that Serpents carry'd to that place will dye immediately.

When the Caravan is ready to set out from Naksivan for Zulfa, which is not above a days journey from thence, the principal Armenians usually go out of the way to the Covent of St. Stephen, which lyes to the South.

Now the Road from Naksivan to St. Stephens lyes first to a great Village call'd Ecclisia, where live the richest Armenians, that drive a great Trade in Silk, and have built them a very fair Church.

Two Leagues from Ecclisia you must cross the River Aras in a Ferry-Boat, being as it were squeez'd between two Mountains in that place: Once I went over upon the Ice. About two Musket-shots from thence, you must cross, over a Bridge, another River that falls into the Aras. From the foot of the Bridge you begin to ascend a little Hill, at the top whereof you meet with a great Village, call'd Shambé, all the Inhabitants whereof, as well Men as Women, grow Mad at 18 years of age; but it is such a Madness that is not mischievous. Some believe it to be the Punishment of Heaven, for that their Forefathers in these Mountains persecuted St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew.

From hence to St. Stephen's it is not above a League, but the Way is very troublesom. St. Stephen's is a Covent built not above 30 Years ago. It stands upon the Mountains, in a barren place, and of difficult access. But the reason why the Armenians chose that place before any other, is because that St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew retir'd thither in the time of their Persecution. They add, that St. Matthew did a Miracle in that place: for that there being no Water there before, he only strook his Stick upon the Ground, and presently there arose a Spring. This Spring is about half a quarter of a League from the Covent, under a Vault with a good Door to it, to keep the Water from being wasted. The Armenians go to visit this Spring in great Devotion, having laid the Water into the Covent with Pipes. They also say, that in this place they found several Relicks which St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew left there, to which they add a great many others; among the rest a Cross, made of the Basin wherein Christ wash'd his Disciples Feet: In the middle of the Cross is a white Stone, which, as they report, if you lay upon a Sick person, will turn black if the person be likely to dye; and recover its former whiteness after the death of the party.

A Jaw-Bone of St. Stephen the Martyr.

The Scull of St. Matthew.

A Bone of the Neck, and a Bone of the Finger of St. John Baptist.

A Hand of St. Gregory, who was the Disciple of Dionysius the Areopagite.

A little Box, wherein they keep a great number of pieces of Bones, which they believe to be the Relicks of the Seventy Two Disciples.

The Church is built in the form of a Cross, as are all the Churches of the Armenians; in the middle whereof rises a fair Duomo, round about which stand the Twelve Apostles. Both the Church and Covent are of Free-stone, and though the whole Edifice be not very big, there has been abundance of Gold and Silver wasted upon the Walls: many Armenian Families have been very much endamag'd thereby; for the Women were so devout, that unknown to their Husbands they sold their Jewels, and their very Cloaths, to defray the Expences of Building.

The first time that I was at St. Stephen's, in the company of some Armenians, two Bishops, attended by several other Monks, came out to meet us, and led usinto