Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/38

for a Canopy: in the midst whereof is a Chair set for the Patriarch, who from thence has a full view of both sides the Gallery; with two other Chairs of each hand, for two Archbishops: the other Archbishops, Monks, and Guests sate at the long Tables. The Meat which they brought us was several sorts of Pilaw, and several Dishes of Fish, among the rest excellent Trouts. The Pilaw was brought in forty wide Plates, so well fill'd and so large, that they were every one as much as a Man could carry. They were all set down upon the Ground before the Patriarch; who then Pray'd and gave Thanks. Then six Bishops with Ladles took out the Meat out of the great Platters, and putting it into lesser, serv'd both the Tables. Every one had also his earthen Pot of Wine, which was very good, and was fill'd again when it was empty. The Patriarch and the two Archbishops eat nothing but two Eggs, and a few raw Herbs; no more did the other Archbishops that sate at the Table.

At the end of the Feast, a Bishop comes with a Paper and Pen and Ink in his Hand, and asks of every one what he pleases to Subscribe for the Benefit of the Church; then every one proposing, according to his Devotion, the Bishop writes down the Names of the Persons, and the Sum which they mention which he comes and gathers the next day. There are some rich Merchants that will give two Tomans, but the meanest Servant will give an Or. The Bishop having done writing, the Table was clear'd, and then they brought us Melons and other Fruits. In a short while after the Bells rung to Evening Service, and the People went to Church.

After Evening Service the Patriarch sent for me to behold a Combat of Bufalo's, of which there are great store in that Country, some serving to Till their Ground; while the Female ones yield store of Milk, of which they make Butter and Cheese, and which they mingle with all sorts of other Milk: There are some of these female Beasts that will give two and twenty Pints of Milk a day.

They brought us into a wide Enclosure, to behold the Sport, wherein there were eight Bufalo's. To provoke them one against another, they shew them a Red Cloth, which puts them into such a Rage, that there were two that dy'd with the stroke of their Horns upon the place, and there were none of the rest which were not very much lam'd. The Sport being at an end, they bring a great quantity of Wood, which they pile together on purpose to set it on Fire. When the Wood was heap'd in as big a Pile as they intended, one of the Archbishops presented a Taper of white Wax to all the Company, both Masters and Servants, who every one agreed with him what they should give the next day for their Tapers. The Tapers being lighted, the Patriarch with a Stick like a Bishop's Crosier, march'd before, singing an Hymn, attended by all the Persons both Ecclesiastical and Secular, till they had in that manner walk'd three times about the Pile. When the Pile came to be lighted, there was great striving who should have the Honour. One of the Merchants offer'd a quantity of Oyl, for Lamps for the Church; another outdid him, and a third proffer'd more than he; and the Honour of Lighting the Pile was given to him that offer'd most. Immediately upon that every one put out his Taper: For they esteem it a most precious business; believing that the lighting of one of those Tapers in a Storm, and throwing it into the Sea, is a present Charm against Shipwrack. For say they, The Virgin Mary, forty days after she was brought to Bed, went to Jerusalem with Joseph and her Son; and going into the Temple met old Simeon, who taking the Child in his Arms, began to sing the Song, Lord now let thy Servant, &c. the Song being ended, all the People began to cry that Christ was born, and to publish it about the City. Now in regard it was Night, every one ran out with Torches in their Hands, and some made Fires before their Doors, where Christ was to pass along. This Festival among the Armenians is like that of Candlemas-day; and they call it in their Language, Ter en Areche? Where is the Lord? The Armenians, Masters and Servants, drank all Night to make an end of their Carnival, while the Patriarch was busie in dressing up the Church with its gayest Ornaments.

I could not believe there had been so much Riches in the Christian Churches under the Power of the Mahumetans. It is not a hundred Years since this Patriarchal Church was in a much meaner Condition: But since the great Sha-Abas put the Armenians upon Traffick, they have very much enrich'd themselves: For as they got great Gains; so they made great Vows, and gave largely to the Church:wherein