Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/37

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Chap. III.
of Monsieur Tavernier.
11

Nunnery for Virgins. The Armenians call this place Egmiasin, or the Only Daughter, which is the Name of the chief Church. You may find in their Chronicles, That it began to be Built about three hundred Years after Christ, and that the Walls being rais'd to a good height, the Devil came in the Night and pull'd down what they built up in the Day; which he did for several Years: but that one Night Christ himself appear'd, and that from that time the Devil surceas'd to molest them any more; so that they finish'd the Church. It is dedicated to St. Gregory, whom the Armenians have in very great veneration. And there is a Table of Stone, whereupon, according to their Chronicles, Christ rested when he appear'd to St. Gregory. They that go into the Church, kiss this Stone with a very solemn Devotion.

The Second is built in honour of a Princess that came with forty Virgins of Quality to visit St. Gregory. This Lady an Armenian King caus'd to be thrown into a Well full of Serpents; but she receiv'd no harm. For she liv'd therein 14 Years by a great Miracle, and from that time to this, the Serpents that breed thereabouts never did any harm. That Idolatrous King had a design to have enjoy'd that Princess, who was very handsom, and all her Companions; but they overcame him by their Virtue: who thereupon, seeing he could not have his Will, put them all to Death.

The Custom of all the Armenians, as well those that come out of Persia, as those that travel into Persia, is to perform their Devotions at these Three Churches; and the Caravan stops usually five or six days, during which time they Confess, and receive Absolution from the Patriarch.

The Patriarch has under him forty seven Archbishops, and every Archbishop has under him four or five Suffragans, with whom he lives in a Convent, where there are several Monks under their Jurisdiction. So soon as they have said their Mass, which is generally done an Hour after Day, they all go to work, and to dig and delve for their living. The Revenue of the Patriarch is 600000 Crowns or thereabouts: for all the Armenian Christians that are above fifteen Years of age, ought to pay him yearly five Sous. However there are many that do not pay him, by reason of their poverty. Yet their defect is suppli'd by the rich, who sometimes pay him two or three Crowns a Head. But this Money does not stay in the Patriach's Pocket: nay he is sometimes behind-hand, for he is engag'd to relieve the poor Armenians, who have not wherewithal to pay the Carage, which is an Annual Tribute that they owe to the Mahometan Princes, to whom they are subject: Otherwise necessity would force them to become Mahometans; and they, their Wives and Children would be liable to be sold, which the Grand Patriarch labours all he can to prevent. Every Archbishop sends him out of his Diocess what is necessary to be rais'd for that intent. So that the Patriarch does but only receive it with one Hand, and pay it with the other; making no Profit to himself of a Revenue which he has out of 400000 Villages, which the Archbishop of St. Stephen's affirm'd to me to be under his Jurisdiction.

As I return'd from Persia in the Year 1655, I came to the Three Churches about the end of February; the Caravan stay'd there eleven Days, as well by reason of the great Snows that stop'd up the Ways, as for that the Armenians resolv'd to keep their Carnival there, and after that to perform their Devotions. The next day I went to visit the Patriarch, who was sitting cross-leg'd upon a Mat. There were four Archbishops, and nine Bishops sitting about him in the same posture, among whom there was one that spake very good Italian. I stay'd with him three Hours; and while we were discoursing together, in came one of the Monks of the Covent, who had not spoken to any person whatsoever in Two and twenty Years, by reason of a Penance that was impos'd upon him. Never did Man appear so meager and deformed; but the Patriarch sent for him, and by his Authority commanded him to break Silence, which he did, by speaking at the same Instant.

The Saturday before Shrove-Sunday the Patriarch invited all the Caravan, as well Masters as Servants, to hear Mass the next day, and then to dine at the Covent. Mass being concluded, the People were brought into a long Gallery, about 15 or 20 Foot broad, there being a Table on both sides, made of several Stones, and Benches next the Walls. At the upper end of the Gallery stands a Table four Foot square, over which is a vaulted Roof sustain'd with four Pillars, which servesfor