Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/36

Comasour is the first Village where you lodge after you leave the Bridge of Choban-Kupri, going to Erivan.

Halicarcara is the next Stage to Comasour: this is a great Town also inhabited by Christians, but the Houses are built all under-ground like Caves. Coming thither the seventh of March 1655, the Snow was so deep that there was no travelling, so that we were forc'd to stay there eight days. But the Customer of Erzerom understanding in what a bad condition we were, came in person with five hundred Horse to make way for us, and sent for the Country-people round about to clear away the Snow. But it was not so much out of Kindness to us, as for his own Interest. For a new Officer being to succeed him upon the 22ᵈ of March, and our Caravan being very numerous, he would have lost above a hundred thousand Crowns, had we not come to Erzerom before that day. Many of the Passengers were almost blinded by continual looking upon the Snow, the colour whereof very much dims the Sight: for preservation whereof the Travellers are wont to wear black Cypress Hoods, made on purpose, over their Faces. Others wear furr'd Bonnets, fringed about with Goats-hair, which being long, falls over their Eyes, and does altogether as well as the Hood.

The Caravan is usually twelve days upon the Road, from Erzerom to Erivan. Leaving Halicarcara, you ford the Aras three times, and cross it the next day again: for it winds exceedingly. A League and a half from the place where you ford it the fourth time, upon the top of a high Mountain stands a Fortress call'd Kaguisgan, which is the last place which the Turks possess on that side. The Customers that live there come to the Caravan to take their Toll, which is four Piasters for every Camel loaden, and two for every Horse loaden. In the year 1655 the Caravan lodging about a League from the Fortress of Kaguisgan, the Mountains adjoyning being inhabited by Christian Armenians, there came to us a poor Bishop attended by fifteen or sixteen persons, among which there were certain Priests, who brought us Bread, Fowl, and Fruit, desiring the Charity of the Merchants, who recompenc'd them to their satisfaction. About four or five Months after, this Bishop had one of his Eyes struck out by a Janisary. That wicked Fellow came to the Town where the Bishop liv'd, and lighting upon the Bishop, ask'd him for Money, which because the Bishop had none to give him, in a rage he stabb'd him in the Eye with his Dagger. Complaint was made to the Aga, who 'tis thought would have punish'd the Offender, but he fled, and left the Bishop without remedy of satisfaction.

From the last place where we encamp'd near the Aras, we went and lodg'd the next day upon the same River, in the sight of a Village not above a quarter of a League. The next day we cross'd the River that runs from Kars, and parts Turkie from Persia. The next day we stop'd upon the Banks of Aras, half a League from a little Town and this is the last time you see this River which you are constrain'd to pass so often.

Leaving Aras, we came to lodge in a Plain, in sight of a Town which is not far distant. The next day the Caravan lyes in the Field, and the next day it comes to a place where there are three Churches, whence it is but half a days journey from Erivan.

The first Place worthy Observation, entring into Persia thorough Armenia, is that which they call the Three Churches, three Leagues from Erivan, which Three Churches, are three Monasteries distant one from the other. The biggest and the fairest is the Residence of the Patriarch of the Armenians. There is another to the South of that, about a Musket-shot distant, and another a quarter of a League from it toward the East, which is aNunnery