Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/32

was, that we met the Grand Visier returning from Hunting, with a Train of four hundred men: so soon as he perceiv'd us, he fil'd off all his men to give us liberty to pass by. But among all the Company, there was not above four Franks upon which he particularly cast his Eye; which made him send for the Caravan Bachi to know who we were. The Caravan Bachi, to avoid the ill Consequences of jealousie which the Visier might have of the Franks, at a time when the Grand Visier made War in Persia, told him we were Jews; at which the Visier, shaking his Head, reply'd only that we did not look like such, and happy it was for us that he took no farther notice. For it was twenty to one, but that upon better consideration he might have sent after us to have stopt us. But when he came home to his Lodging he found a Capigi staying for him, with Orders from the Grand Signor to take off his Head, which were presently executed. For Amurath being troubl'd for the loss of his Army, had no way but to revenge himself upon the person that had the command of it.

Notwithstanding that the Caravans rest at Tocat, yet they stay likewise two or three days at Charkliqueu, which is not above two Leagues distant from it, for Charkliqueu is a great Town in a lovely Country, between two fertil Hills, where there grows excellent Wine. It is for the most part inhabited by Christians, who are generally Tanners. The fine blew Goat-leather Skins being drest in Tocat, and the Parts thereabout. It is thought the Water contributes very much to their Art. For Tocat is as famous for the blew Goats-leather Skins, as Diarbequir and Bagdat are for the red, Moussul or the ancient Niniveh for the yellow, and Ourfa for the black. About two thousand Paces from this Town, in the midst of a Plain rises a vast Rock, upon the North-side whereof you ascend about nine or ten steps into a Chamber with a Bed, a Table, and a Cupboard in it, all hewn out of the Rock. Upon the West side you ascend other five or six steps that lead to a little Gallery, about five or six Foot long, and three broad, all hewn out of the Rock, though it be of an extraordinary hardness. The Christians affirm that St. Chrysostom made this Rock his retiring-place during his Exilement, and that he had no other Bed or Bolster than the Rock it self, in a place where they shew you the print of a Man's Body. Hence it is, that the Caravans, consisting for the most part of Christian Merchants, stay at Charkliqueu, to pay their Devotions to this Rock, where the Bishop of the place, attended by some Priests, with every one a Taper in their Hands, goes and says Mass. But the main Reason is, because there grows excellent Wine in this place, which being cheaper by half here, than it is at Tocat, obliges the Armenians to stop here, to provide themselves for the rest of their Journey.

Two Leagues from Charkliqueu, you cross over very high Mountains, with Precipices on both sides. It is the custom of the Armenians, when they hear of the approach of a Caravan, to ride out two or three days journey to meet their Country-men and carry them fresh Provisions. Those of Charkliqueu coming to meet our Caravan, three of the Armenians took a large Mornings-draught, which made them so Pot-valiant, that they would needs ride before to the Town alone by themselves; but by the way they were set upon by six Horse-men that came from the North, where there are higher Mountains than those which we were to cross. Immediately the Thieves darted their Half-Pikes at the Armenians, in so much that two of them fell down mortally wounded, and the other sav'd himself among the Rocks, but the Thieves got their Horses and Goods, which were valu'd at ten thousand Crowns. The Caravan at the top of the Hill beheld the misfortune of those poor men which their own folly had brought upon them, but could not help them, by reason of the narrowness of the ways; besides, that the Thieves knowing all the by-turnings, were presently out of sight. And therefore it is a dangerous thing to leave the Body of the Caravan, either by staying too far behind, or running too fast before: and some have suffer'd for distancing themselves not above five hundred Paces from it.

The Caravans do not make their Journeys all alike; but come to their Stages sometimes sooner, sometimes later, according as they meet with Water and Inns, or places fit to pitch their Tents in, to which places the Natives bring Provision and Provender from the Mountains. There are some places where there is a necessity to provide Straw and Barley for two or three days. If you travel in May, when the Grass is high, it costs nothing to feed the Horses and Camels. For assoon