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The  Persian Travels
Book III.

to force all Ships that were bound into Italy to pay certain Customs, which those of Marseilles would not pay when they came into the Port of Toulon. Thereupon foreseeing that there would be mischief done, I call'd for my little Chests that contain'd my Goods of greatest value, carrying some part my self, and giving the rest to one of my most trusty Servants, thinking to have skipt into a Genoa Bark that lay hard by us; but instead of leaping a-board, I fell into the Sea: where by reason of the Tumult I had perish'd without relief, had I not by good fortune laid hold of a Cable and redeem'd my self. At what time one of my Servants luckily coming to my ayd, with much ado drew me up safe again.

Having escap'd this danger, I got a-shoar with such of my Servants as I had about me, and meeting with a Bark of Frontignan that carry'd Languedock-Wine to the Coast of Italy, I hir'd him for Ligorn; and setting Sail, we first touch'd Villafranca, and afterwards at Monaco.

At Monaco I went a-shoar, and went to wait upon Madam the Princess, who shew'd me the Rarities in the Castle; among the rest, several pieces of extraordinary Painting, several pieces of Clock-work and Goldsmiths-work. But among all her Curiosities she shew'd me two pieces of Crystal, about the bigness of two Fists each, in one of which there was above a Glass full of Water, in the other a good quantity of Moss; which were clos'd in by Nature when the Crystal first congeal'd.

Monaco is a Castle situated upon a steep Rock, advancing out into the Sea; which advantage, together with others which it receives from Art and Nature, renders it one of the most considerable Forts in Italy.

The next day finding the Frontignan-Vessel to be deep laden, and that it made little way, I took a Faluke, and kept along by the Shoar, which was most pleasantly adorn'd with beautiful Villages and Houses, as far as Savona; where I chang'd my Faluke, to compleat the rest of the way which I had to Genoa. Half the way we did very well, but the Wind rising, we were forc'd to put in to a great Town, where we landed; and from thence, having but nine Miles, I got in good time by Horse to Genoa. There can be no Prospect certainly more pleasing than that nine Miles riding. For on the one side you see nothing but a continu'd Row of magnificent Buildings and lovely Gardens; on the other a calm Shoar, upon which the Waves seem not to beat, but lovingly to kiss.

Arriving at Genoa, I met with the rest of my Servants; and at the end of two days I embarqu'd for Ligorn, where we arriv'd in four and twenty hours.

From Ligorn I went to the Court of Florence, to wait upon the Grand Duke. By whom I had the honour to be admitted into his Chamber, where I found no body attending but one Mute, who had a long time serv'd his Highness: and I observ'd that they understood one another by Signs, as perfectly as if the Mute had had his Speech and Hearing. So that when-ever the Duke sent him into his Closet for any Papers or other thing whatsoever, he never fail'd to bring the right.

After I had tak'n my leave of the Duke, he sent me a noble Present of Wine and Fruits; but that which I valu'd more than all the rest, was a Case of Medicaments and Counter-poysons, in the composition whereof the Italians are very exquisite. And yet they did me no service; for when I came into the hot Countries their fermentation was so strong, that all the Oyls and Treacles broke their several Boxes, that I could save nothing of that precious Present.

The next day, being the twenty-sixth of March 1664, I embarqu'd with all my Servants in a Dutch Vessel call'd The Justice.

The twenty-seventh we staid in the Road, expecting the rest of the Fleet, consisting of eleven Ships, two Men of War, and nine Merchant-men; four of which were bound for Smyrna, three for Ancona, and two for Venice. About seven that evening we set Sail, and all that night the Wind was favourable, but blew hard and veer'd often; which was the reason that two of our Fleet separated from us, steering between the Isle of Elbe and Corsica, while we kept on between the Isle of Elba and Italy.

The twenty-eighth by eight in the Morning we found our selves between Porto Ferraro and Piombino, and it being fair Weather, we had a pleasant prospect of those two places. From thence we steer'd between two Ilands, the one call'd Palmajola, the other being nameless. About six hours after we saw Portolongone, afterwards at a distance we descry'd Monte-Christo. An hour after Noon we dis-cover'd