Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/122
the other. It is one of the best countries in the possession of the Grand Signor, being stor'd with large Meadows and excellent Pasturage, where are bred infinite numbers of Beasts, especially Mares and Bufalo's. The Female Bufalo's go twelve Months, and yield so much milk, that there are some which will give two and twenty Pints. And there is so large a quantity of Butter made, that in some Villages upon the Tigris, we saw sometimes five and twenty, sometimes twenty Barks lad'n with Butter, which the people sell all along the Gulf of Persia, as well upon Arabia, as Persia side.
Half the way between Bagdat and Balsara, we perceiv'd several Pavilions set up in the Meadows along by the side of the River. Upon enquiry we heard that the Tefterdar was come from Constantinople to gather the Grand Signor's duty's. For from Bagdat to Gorno, for all the Bufalo's as well Male as Female, there is to be paid a Piaster and a quarter for every head once a year; which is worth yearly to the Grand Signor a hundred and fourscore thousand Piasters. Every Mare also pays two Piasters, every Sheep ten Sous; which if the Country people were not very cunning, would be worth fifty thousand Piasters more than it is.
After this we came to Gorno, a Fortress upon the point where the two Rivers meet, besides two other small Castles upon each side, so that there is no passing without leave. Upon the Fort of Gorno which was well furnish'd with Cannon, we saw the Prince of Balsara's Son, who was Governour of the Fort. And here it is that the Account of the Customs is taken. But though they are very exact in searching the Barks, they are very civil, for they search no body. However lest any Goods should be hid between the Planks of the Ships, over which they generally throw Fagots and Canes, the Customers bring a great Piercer, with which they bore the sides of the Bark quite through for the discovery of conceal'd Goods. The Goods are Register'd at Gorno, but the Customs are always paid at Balsara, according to the accompt giv'n from the Fort.
The same day entring into the Channel that is cut out of Euphrates to Balsara, we met the chief of the Holland Factory taking his pleasure in a Boat cover'd with Scarlet, who took me with him to Balsara.
Balsara stands upon the side of Arabia deserta, two Leagues from the Ruines of a City, which was formerly call'd Teredon, and anciently stood in the Desert, to which the Water was formerly conveigh'd out of Euphrates in a Brick Channel still to be seen.
By the Ruines it appears to have been a great City, from whence the Arabians fetch away the Bricks and sell them at Balsara. The City of Balsara is half a League from Euphrates, which the Arabians in their Language call Shetel-arob, or the River of Arabia. The Inhabitants of the City have made a Channel to it about half a League long, which bears Vessels of 150 Tun; at the end whereof stands a Fort, so that no Vessel can get into the Fort without leave. The Sea is above fifteen Leagues off, but the Tide comes up to the Channel, and fills the River other fifteen Leagues upward beyond Gorno. The Country is so low, that were it not for a Dam that runs along the Sea-shoar, it would often be in danger of being drown'd. The Dam is above a League in length, and built all of Free-stone so strong, that the fury of the waves can do them no injury, though it lie open to a Boystrous Sea.
It is not above a hundred years since Balsara belong'd to the Arabians of the Desert, and had no commerce with the Nations of Europe. For those people were contented to eat their own Dates, having so great a quantity, that they only live upon them. 'Tis the same thing all along the Gulf on each side; for from Balsara to the River Indus for above six hundred Leagues together, and all along the Coast of Arabia to Mascaté, the poor sort of people know not what it is to eat Rice, but live upon Dates and Salt-fish dry'd in the wind. The Cows eat no Grass, and though they go abroad in the fields, they find little or nothing among the bushes which is proper for them to eat. But every Morning before they drive them to the Field, and when they return home, they give them heads of fish and Date-nuts boil'd together.
The Turks having had War with the Arabians took Balsara; and yet because the Arabians always hover'd about the Town, and made booty of all they could lay their hands on, they were forc'd to come to an agreement with them, that the Arabs should quietly enjoy all the Desert 'till within a League of the City; and that theTurks