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84
The  Persian Travels
Book II.

they have any thing about 'em which ought to pay, they carry the persons to the Custom-House, where they write down the quantity of the Goods, and let them go. All the Merchandize upon the Kilet is carry'd thither also, which the Merchant fetches away again in two or three days, paying the Custom: All which is done in very great order, without any noise or disturbance in the least.

Though Bagdat usually bear the name of Babylon, yet it is at a great distance from the ancient Babylon, whereof in due place. But now for Bagdat, as it stands at this day.

Bagdat is a City seated upon the River of Tigris, on the Coast of Persia, and separated from Mesopotamia by the same River. It lyes in 33 Deg. 15 Min. of Elevation. The Chronicles of the Arabians report that it was built by one of their Califfs nam'd Almansour, in the year of the Hegyra of Mahomet 145, and of Christianity 762, or thereabouts. They call it Dar-al-sani, that is, the House of Peace. Some say it deriv'd its name from a Hermitage that stood in a Meadow where the City now stands, whence it was call'd Bagdat, or, a Garden bequeath'd. About forty years ago digging up the Foundations of an Inn, the Work-men found a Body entire, habited like a Bishop, with a Censor and Incense by him. And in the same place several Cells of Religious Houses shew'd themselves: which makes it very probable, that where Bagdat is built there was anciently a great Monastery, with several Houses where the Christians inhabited. The City is about fifteen hundred Paces long, and sev'n or eight hundred broad, and cannot possibly be above three Miles in circuit. The Walls are of Brick, and terrass'd in some places, with large Towers like Bastions. Upon all these Towers there are mounted about sixty pieces of Cannon, the biggest whereof carries not above a five or six Pound Ball. The Moats are wide, and about five or six Fathom deep. There are not above four Gates; three upon the Land-side, and one upon the River, which you must cross, over a Bridge of thirty-three Boats, distant one from the other about the bredth of one Boat. The Castle is in the City, near to one of the Gates call'd El-Maazan, upon the North side. It is partly built upon the River, encompass'd only with a single Wall, terrass'd in some places; and adorn'd with little Towers, upon which are planted about a hundred and fifty Cannon, but without Carriages. The Moat is narrow, and not above two or three Fathom deep, neither is there any Draw-Bridge before the Gate. The Garrison consists of three hundred Janizaries, commanded by an Aga. The City is govern'd by a Basha, who is generally a Vizier. His House is upon the side of the River, making a fair shew; and he has alway ready at command six or sev'n hundred Horse. There is also an Aga that commands three or four hundred Spahi's. They have besides another sort of Cavalry which is call'd Ginguliler, that is to say, Men of Courage, commanded by two Aga's; and usually there are about three thousand in the City and the Towns adjoyning. The Keys of the Gates of the City and the Bridge-Gate are in the custody of another Aga, who has under him two hundred Janizaries. There are also six hundred Foot-men, who have their particular Aga, and about sixty Cannoneers, who were at that time commanded by an expert Artist that went by the name of Signor Michaël, who pass'd for a Turk, though he were born in Candy. He put himself into the Grand Signor's service, when he went to besiege Bagdat, in the year 1638. Though the Turk had the good fortune to carry the City in a small time; not so much by virtue of the Breach which Signor Michaël had made in the Wall, as the Sedition and Revolt that happen'd at the same instant, the Story whereof was thus in short.

The Kan that sustain'd the brunt of the Siege at first, was originally an Armenian, and his name was Sefi-couli-Kan. He had commanded the City a long time, and had defended it twice from the Army of the Turks, who were not able to take it before. But the King of Persia having sent one of his Favourites to command in his room, who had enter'd upon his Command before the Cannon had made the Breach, the old Kan finding himself displac'd by the Commission of the new Governour, rather chose to dye, than survive the Affront which was put upon him. To which purpose he sent for his Servants, the Officers of the Army, his Wife and Son, and taking three Cups of Poyson in his Hand, he commanded his Wife, if ever she lov'd him, now to shew the marks of her affection by generously dying with him. He gave the same exhortation to his Son; and so all three together drank up the Poyson, which procur'd their speedy death. The Souldiers, who had a great love for their Governour,having