Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/111
The twentieth we set Sail, having the Wind at West-South-West, and a fresh gale; so that upon the twenty-third we discover'd the Coast of the Morea, to which we approach'd so near, as to descry Navarin. In the Evening we saw the City of Coron, where there is a great Trade for Sallet-Oyl. From thence it was that the Great Turk Embarqu'd for Candy in the year 1645.
The twenty-fourth the Wind was at East-North-East. In the Morning we discover'd the Cape of Matapan, which is the most Southern Point of Land in Europe, lying in the Morea, and at Noon the Iland of Cherigo.
The twenty-fifth we drew near Cyprus, and descry'd a Mountain in that Iland, call'd Cameliere, with some other Promontories toward the South.
From the twenty-seventh day 'till we came to Alexandretta, we perceiv'd the Sea to be all over cover'd with Pumice-stones, which happ'nd from an Earthquake that had for some time before swallow'd up the Iland of Santorini. Some think that it proceeded from the abundance of Sulphur, of which that Country is full, which took Fire, and was the death of above 750 of the Ilanders, that were partly buried in the Ruines, and partly dy'd out of fear. They that remain'd alive, became black like Charcoal; and the Vapours that attended out of the Abyss sully'd all the Silver as far as Constantinople; the noise of the Earthquake being heard as far as Smyrna.
The twenty-ninth, by break of day we discover'd the Iland of Cyprus.
The first of October by eight in the Morning we came to an Anchor before Salines, which is one of the Ports of Cyprus, where our Consuls live. Here I ask'd several of the Christians of the Country, how they did to live and pay their Carage? Who told me that it was with a great deal of difficulty, in regard the Iland was very bare of Money; which was the reason that many Christians turn'd Mahometans, to avoid paying their Carage, which is a Tribute that the Grand Signor layes upon all Christians throughout his Dominions. He exacts from the poorest six Piasters a Head; but there are some that pay a hundred, or a hundred and fifty: and this Tribute is due so soon as ever they come to be eighteen years of age.
The Iland of Cyprus is one of the most considerable in the Mediterranean Sea, more to the East than any of the rest bearing the title of a Kingdom, as being 500 Miles in circuit. It is not all of the same bredth, being of a triangular form, the sides whereof are very unequal. To it there belong several Capes or Promontories, the principal whereof are, St. Epiphanio, toward the West; Cape de Gare, toward the South; Cape Diegrega, toward the North-East; Cape Cormachiti, toward the North; and Cape St. Andrew, upon the most Eastern Point of the Iland. The principal Roads are that of Salines or Larneca, that of Paphos, and that of Cerines or Cerigni. The Haven of Famagosta signifies nothing as to great Ships, there being none but small Vessels that can ride there. The Venetians had formerly made a small Mole there to harbour their Gallies, but it is now quite ruin'd. The Road of Cerines is that where the Barks and Galliots lye that come from Caramania, and Payasses; and where the Basha's land that are sent as Governours of the Iland from Constantinople, who reside generally at Nicosia. That City is almost in the middle of the Iland, and was formerly a very large one, as appears by the compass of the ancient Walls. The new Walls are well terrass'd within-side, and in a good posture of defence. There are three Gates belong to the City; that of Famagosta, that of Paphos, and that of Cerines. The City it self is no uncomely place; the Venetians having adorn'd it with many fair Palaces, which the Turks demolish every day, out of hopes to find hidd'n Treasure therein, and sell the Stones to build new Houses. The Cathedral that goes by the name of Santa Sophia is an ample and fair Structure, of which the Turks have now made a Mosquee, together with one more, which was formerly a Monastery belonging to the Austin-Fryars. The Greeks have there four Churches, and the Franks two; that is to say, the French Missionary Capuchins, and the Italian Missionary Soccolans. The first have a Church dedicated to St. James, the others another, which is call'd Holy Rood Church. The Armenians also have another belonging to them, which is a very neat Building, which was formerly a Monastery of the Carthusians. There it is that there is a Tomb, adorn'd with several Sculptures of Religious Nunns, especially an Abbess with a Cross in her Hand, the Writing about the Stone being in French Characters. The City is seated in a temperate Air and a fertil Soil, abounding with Water. It extends more in length than bredth,having