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76
The  Persian Travels
Book II.

the greatest part of the neighbouring Provinces. Which is the reason that some of the Persian States-men hold it very inconvenient for the King of Persia to keep Bagdat, as well by reason of the vastness of the Charge, as also for that it draws from Amadan that which should supply other Provinces. On the other side, it is easie for the Grand Signor to hold it, by reason of the neighbourhood of Mesopotamia, Assyria, and the Arabs, Enemies to the Persians: by which means Provisions are very cheap, which the people would not know where to put off, if the King of Persia were Lord of Bagdat.

We staid at Amadan about ten days, by reason of the Rains; during which time the Caravans cannot travel. While we tarry'd there, we were visited by several Babylonian Christians, who were glad to see that we had escap'd the Clutches of the Basha of Bagdat, who had giv'n order to the Basha of Karkou, and the Bey of Sharassou that commands the Frontiers of Turkie, to seize us, and carry us back to Bagdat. For which we might have thank'd the Ambassador, and a malicious Rabbi, that came along with us in the Caravan from Aleppo; who finding the Feast of the Tabernacles to be at hand, and that we had a great way to Ispahan, left us at Niniveh, to keep the Festival with the Jews of Babylon. Where that he might insinuate himself into the Basha's favour, he inform'd him that there was a Fringuiz in the Caravan, whom he look'd upon as a Spy, and that he was an Envoy into Persia from the Commonwealth of Venice; for he carry'd no Merchandize, but had three Chests full of rich Habits, and several other things which he took for Presens to the Persian King. For out of vanity or folly, the Venetian had several times open'd his Chest and expos'd his Gallantry to view. And yet he was so clutch-fisted and niggardly in every thing, that when there was any occasion to reward the Kan's Servant, or any of the Country-men that brought us the Dainties of the place, it came all out of my Pocket. So that I left him to my Interpreter and the two Capuchins; and with three Servants and a Guide, after I had staid at Amadan three days, I took Horse for Ispahan.

When I came there, the Nazar or Master of the King's Houshold hearing I had left an Ambassador behind me with the Caravan, enquir'd of me what manner of Person he was, but I pretended I had had little converse with him, unwilling to discover his mean Spirit. The Evening before his Arrival the Nazar sent to give the Fringuiz notice in the King's Name, that they should be ready to go meet the Ambassador the next day; which we did, and brought him into the City and through Ali's Gate, that joyns to the King's Palace. Now 'tis the custom for all Ambassadors to salute that Gate, by reason of a white Marble Stone made like an Asses back, and which serves for a Step: being, as they report, brought anciently out of Arabia, where Ali liv'd. So soon as you have strid over that Stone without touching it, which were a great crime, you enter into a kind of a Gallery, where there are Rooms on each side, which serves for a Sanctuary for Criminals, which the King himself cannot fetch out of that place. That day that the new King receives his Ensigns of Royalty, he goes to stride over that Stone; and if by negligence he should chance to touch it, there are four Guards at the Gate, that would make a shew of thrusting him back again.

But now the Master of the Ceremonies being ready to conduct the Ambassador to the Apartment alotted him, as an Ambassador that came from three great Monarchs, and a potent Commonwealth, he desir'd to lodge at the House of one Pietro Pentalet, descended from Venetian Parents; whereupon the Master of the Ceremonies conducted him thither, and caus'd his Dinner to be brought him. While we were eating, I counted thirteen Languages spoken at the Table; Latin, French, High-Dutch, English, Low-Dutch, Italian, Portuguez, Persian, Turkish, Arabic, Indian, Syriac, and Malaye, which is the Language of the Learned, that is spoken from the River Indus to China and Japan, and in all the Ilands of the East, like Latin in Europe; not reck'ning the little Moresco or Gibbrish of the Country. So that it is a difficult thing to observe what is talk'd in one Company, where the Discourse begins in one Language, is pursu'd in another, and finish'd in a third: and for the Turks and Armenians, they never speak above three or four Languages at most.

Now to shew you the Civility of the Persians; the Master of the Ceremonies came to the Ambassador and told him, that if he did not like the Cookery of the Persians, he had Order from the Atemadoulet, who is as the Grand Vizier in Turkie, to offer himMoney