Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/107

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Chap. V.
of Monsieur Tavernier.
75

concerning the War between the Grand Signor and the Venetians, how many thousand men he had as well by Sea as Land, and what number of Galleys and Ships? wherein we satisfy'd him according to the best of our knowledge. After he had civilly treated us, he sent his Lieutenant back with us again to the Caravan. About ten a Clock the next night we dislodg'd, and the Lieutenant and six Souldiers attended upon us; who told us he had order not to leave us, 'till he had brought us to Solyman Kan.

The next night we lodg'd between two Hills, among several Tents of Herdsmen. Here it was that the Commander had order'd that we should be treated by the Deroga. A Deroga, as I have said, is the Judge of a Village: But this Deroga was chief of many Families, some of which were of Mesopotamia, others of Arabia. These are all Herdsmen than never live in Houses, but retire with their Cattle to the holes in the Rocks, where partly Nature, partly Art, have contributed to make them convenient Habitations.

So soon as we were alighted, four ancient men came and led the Ambassador and my self to the Deroga's Tent. It seem'd to consist of many Rooms, with a Hall in the middle, spread with fair Persian Carpets. He caus'd us to sit down upon Cushions, and then presented us with a Pipe of Tobacco, and Water to wash our Feet. After he had nobly treated us, and that we were upon taking our leaves, the Deroga was very much troubl'd that we had made a small Present to his Son; telling us, that it was a crime for him to take any thing of the King's Guests, especially from Strangers that had come so long a Journey.

The next day we lodg'd in a place where there was such a prodigious quantity of Lillies that the Ground was almost cover'd with them. There were none that were white, being for the most part of a fair Violet colour, with a streak of Red in the middle of every leaf; they are like our Lilly's, but much bigger. And to drink the infusion of the Roots of these Lilly's, especially those whose Leaves are blackest, for fifteen days together, is a most Soveraign remedy against the Pox. Not long after came a Person of a goodly Aspect, who seem'd to be an Arabian, but he spoke the Persian Language, whom Solyman Kan had sent to Compliment the Ambassador. He carry'd us to the Tent which the Governour had caus'd to be set up in a Garden near the Town, where he also Lodg'd the Capuchins. The Ambassador also sent to Compliment the Kan by my interpreter; and when the hour was come that we were to set forward, he gave order to six of the Captains of his Cavalry to accompany the Ambassador. The House where the Governour liv'd in, was one of the most beautiful in Persia. And as for the Governour himself, we found him in a Gallery that look'd upon the Garden, the Floor being all spread over with a Tapestry of Gold and Silk, with large Cushions of Cloth of Gold all along the Wall. After some Questions and discourse concerning the Affairs of Europe, they serv'd in Supper, which consisted of several Dishes; but no Wine was to be had; our drink being only Sherbet and the juice of Granates, with Sugar for those that desir'd it. We were a long time at Supper, for 'tis the custom of Persia that when one man rises, another takes his place and falls too, in so much that the Master of the Feast must have the Patience to stay 'till several have tak'n their turns; and when every one has done, the Cloth is tak'n away without any more to do. Here the Ambassador committed an absurdity; for there are no Silver or Gold Spoons in Persia, but only long Wooden Ladles that reach a great way. Now the Ambassador reaching his Ladle to a Purslane-Dish full of Pottage that was scalding hot, clap'd it presently into his mouth; but finding it so hot that he could not endure it, after several scurvy faces, he threw it out of his mouth again into his hand, in the presence of all the Company.

After we had stay'd five days at Sneirne, the Caravan-Bashi signifi'd his desire to pursue his Journey. Thereupon the Ambassador took his leave of the Governour, presenting him with a Watch and a pair of Pistols; who in retaliation presented the Ambassador with a stately Horse, and a Colt of two years old. The next day we dislodg'd, and pursu'd our Road to Amadan, which is not above three days Journey from Sneirne.

Amadan is one of the largest and most considerable Cities of Persia, seated at the foot of a Mountain, where do arise an infinite company of Springs that water all the Country. The Land about it abounds in Corn and Rice, wherewith it furnishesthe