Page:The Six Voyages of John Baptista Tavernier.djvu/104

abundance of Vaults and Caverns uninhabited; nor could a man well conjecture whether they were the ancient Habitations of the people, or whether any houses had been built upon them in former times; for most of the houses in Turkie are like Cellars, or else but one Story high. Half a League from Tigris stands a little Hill encompas'd with Houses, on the top whereof is built a Mosquée. The people of the Country say 'twas the place where Jonas was bury'd; and for that place they have so great a veneration, that no Christians are suffer'd to enter into it, but privately, and for Money. By that means I got in with two Capuchin Fryars; but we were forc'd to put off our Shooes first. In the middle of the Mosquée stood a Sepulchre, cover'd with a Persian Carpet of Silk and Silver, and at the four corners, great Copper Candlesticks with Wax Tapers, besides several Lamps and Ostridge-Shells that hung down from the Roof. We saw a great number of Moores without, and within sat two Dervi's reading the Alcoran.

About a Musket-Shot from Moussul toward the North-East, stands a great Ruin'd Monastery, enclos'd with high Walls, the greatest part whereof is still to be seen.

We stay'd ten days at Moussul, and having provided all things ready for the rest of our Journey, we set forward for Ispahan.

Having pass'd the Tigris, we stay'd three quarters of an hours Journey from Nineveh for some Merchants that were to go along with the Caravan. The way which we took was not the usual Road to Persia; but it was a way wherein there were less Duties to be paid; and besides, it was a short cut, the Caravan making but fifty-eight days Journey between Aleppo and Ispahan. From the very banks of the River to the place where we Lodg'd that Evening, we saw nothing but continu'd Ruines, which makes me believe, it was the place where the ancient Nineveh stood.

We stay'd two days near the Mosquée, where according to the tradition of the Turks, Jonas was bury'd, and made choice of a Curd, or Assyrian for our Caravan-Bashi, though the people are generally Thieves, and must be carefully look'd after. But it was a piece of Policy, because we were to cross the ancient Assyria, now call'd Curdistan; the Language of which Country is a particular Speech.

In the two first days Journey we cross'd two small Rivers that fall from the Mountains, and empty themselves into Tigris. Our first Journey was through a plain Country all along by the side of a little River; and the second Evening we lodg'd by the side of a great River that falls from the Mountains toward the North, and running to the South, discharges it self into Tigris. It is call'd Bohrus, being a very rapid Stream, full of Fish, but more especially excellent Trouts. The Caravan was two days passing that River, by reason there were no Boats. For the people are forc'd to tye long Perches four or five together one upon another, which the Natives call a Kilet. They make it four-square, and put underneath it about a hundred Goat-Skins full of wind, to the end the Kilet may not touch the water. Besides the Merchant must be careful to spread good store of thick Felts over the Kilet, of which he must be provided to keep off the Water, least the Bales that sink the Kilet should take wet. At the four corners are four Perches that serve for Oars, though they avail but little against the force of the Tide; so that you must be forc'd to hale the Kilet four or five hundred Paces a' this side up the River, and then row down the Stream to the place where you intend to Land the Goods. When the Goods are Landed, the men are forc'd again to draw the Kilet by main strength out of the water, to take away the Goat-Skins which are then to be lad'n upon the Mules appointed to carry them. As for the Horses, Mules, and Asses, as well those that carri'dthe