Page:Surrey Archaeological Collections Volume 1.djvu/331

The brasses of ecclesiastics which yet exist give us examples of every variety in the habits of the hierarchy, down to the year 1554 (2 Mary), and on to 1611 (7 Charles I.). In addition to archbishops, bishops and abbots, priors and abbesses are also represented in brasses, though at a late period only; and in addition to these, commencing early in the second half of the 14th century, there is a long series of engraven effigies of priests in eucharistic, processional, and academic habits. The modifications of form and adjustment introduced into some of the clerical vestments, together with the varieties in their ornamentation, are well shown in these brasses, which are also, in many instances, indicative of the tone of feeling prevalent at the time.

The brasses of ladies and civilians (which commence at about the same period with those of ecclesiastics) exhibit abundant varieties in costume. These are all, without doubt, truthful examples of the dresses and ornaments actually worn. From other sources (illuminated MSS., &c.) we learn, that during the 14th and 15th centuries the dresses of both sexes were not only continually changing in their fashion, but that they were various and fantastic in the extreme. On the brasses the extravagances of fashion almost universally appear, with the very best taste, chastened, and the more outrageous forms are curtailed and simplified; or, rather, such forms are omitted, while the comparatively simpler styles are retained and exhibited. A marked similarity between the general effect of the costume of the two sexes is observable: the knightly coif of mail was emulated in the wimple of the high-born dame; both knight and lady wore the flowing mantle; the ladies delighted to have their dresses covered with heraldic adornments, and strange to our eyes (if not to their own) they