Page:Notes upon Russia (volume 2, 1851).djvu/176
ger fell in amongst the melting and broken ice near the bank, and was only extricated with difficulty. It happened also that at a certain place the river was entirely melted on both sides, and the ice being removed, we had only that part of the ice which continual traffic had hardened, and which was comprised within the tracks of the carriage-wheels, to serve us by way of a bridge to cross over, which we did with great dread and risk. The general rumour increased our alarm; for we were told, that not long before, about a hundred Russian nobles, in crossing over the same river when it was frozen, had been all drowned to a man.
From Drissa to Doporoski, six miles; and thence to the principality of Polotzko, which they call Waiwodate, seated on the river Dwina, which some call the Rubo. At this place we were received with distinction in the midst of a large concourse of people, and were treated with magnificence and cordiality, and finally conducted to our residence.
Between Vilna and Polotzco are numerous lakes, and a considerable number of marshes, with woods of immense extent, stretching even as far as fifty German miles.
On proceeding further, we found the road on the frontiers of the kingdom by no means safe, on account of the frequent skirmishes made on each side, and there were either no inns, or they were deserted. But after passing through several marshes and woods, we came to the cottages of the shepherds Harbsle and Milenki, in which journey my Lithuanian guide deserted me. In addition to the discomforts of the inns, must be mentioned the extreme difficulty of the road, in as much as we had to travel amongst lakes and marshes slippery with snow and ice, until we came to the town of Nischa, seated on a lake of the same name.
Thence four miles to Quadassen; at which place we crossed with great fear and peril a certain lake, in which the waters stood above the ice, and reached the hut of a certain peasant, where, by the foresight of my companion George, we were