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large turbans and flowing robes. From time to time the artillery, fire crackers, and rockets of the roadstead would reply to the cannon, fire-crackers, and rockets of the city, and the spectacle then became wonderful. It seemed as if the ocean shot forth sparks that illuminated the city, while the latter launched up lightnings to illuminate the heavens. The festivities would no doubt have continued till the next day, if a sudden storm had not driven the rejoicing crowds in-doors, I have seen many national holidays in the old world, but I never saw enjoyment so overwhelming, nor gayety so frank.

The negroes are very numerous at Bahia, and they have frequently, during political troubles, caused serious anxieties to the Portuguese.^[1] The rivalry of tribes, the distinctions of which are carefully kept up, have alone prevented a repetition of the massacre of Santo Domingo.

A traveller who was unacquainted with the in-door habits of the creoles would think, in passing through Bahia, that he was in a negro town, One here meets with specimens of all the African tribes that the conquistadores brough to the shores of Brazil. The athletic Mina seems to be predominant, and to preserve all his primitive freshness and vigor. Slavery has introduced some curious customs, which ore striking to a stranger, Sometimes you see two negroes passing along the street with a heavy, measured tread, clanking upon the flags a large chain riveted to their legs. This sad appendage indicates two fugitives who cannot be trusted, and who are secured together to render any future escape impossible, Further on you perceive a slave with his face concealed by an iron mask firmly locked, very like those formerly worn by the paladins of the middle ages. Your guide informs you that the poor wretch is a dirt-eater, and that he is thus prevented from indulging his outlandish tastes. But it is especially the gigantic Minas negresses that excite attention. Sometimes one might imagine them antique goddesses cut in black marble. It is not rare to meet with these women six feet in height, gravely carrying a banana or an orange upon her head. The abhorrence of work is so deeply rooted in their indolent and sensual nature, that they would deem themselves dishonored if they carried the smallest object in their hands.

Towards evening is generally the time when the young people go out to visit each other or to meet at a rendezvous; but their dignity as whites and their creole nonchalance keep them from walking in the streets. They ride small horses of surprising agility, which they urge to full speed, whatever the declivity they are ascending or descending. Men and senhoras of mature years go out only in the palanguin, The latter, indeed, seldom leave the house except on days of festivity to attend mass. This enervating life gradually wastes them away, and it is rare that they can sustain comparison with the voluptuous forms of the women of color, who have drawn from their African blood a wealth of incomparable vigor.

Bahia is the Portuguese city par ezcellence,^[2] but lacking in the activity and untiring energy of its founders. The monks predominate here more than in any other part of Brazil, and with them reign all the superstitions of former times, Each individual has his chosen