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capable of great endurance. For the hundredth time I thought that, take them all round, I had never seen their equals; no, not in Italy itself, nor among our own choicest, for quiet self-contained good-breeding and easy courtesy. The flowers by the wayside were lovely, especially those of the narcissus, of which for the last fortnight I had had bundles and bundles offered me; but I was told that there would be other flowers still lovelier later on. The birds were plentiful and much as in Europe, but not tame as they had been on the other side the ranges. They were shot at with the cross-bow and with arrows, gunpowder being unknown, or at any rate not in use.

We were now nearing the metropolis and I could see great towers and fortifications, and lofty buildings that looked like palaces. I began to be nervous as to my reception; but I had got on very well so far, and resolved to continue upon the same plan as hitherto—namely, to behave just as though I were in England until I saw that I was making a blunder, and then to say nothing till I could gather how the land lay. We drew nearer and nearer. The news of my approach had got abroad, and there was a great crowd collected on either side the road, who greeted me with marks of most respectful curiosity, keeping me bowing constantly in acknowledgment from side to side. When we were about a mile off, we were met by the mayor and several councillors, among whom was a venerable old man, who was introduced to me by the mayor (for so I suppose I should call him) as the gentleman who had invited me to his house. I bowed deeply and told him how grateful I felt to him, and how gladly I would accept his hospitality. He forbade me to say