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variably perfect. Their colour was equal to that of the very finest Venetian or Bolognese paintings; of the clearest olive, and yet ruddy with a glow of perfect health. Their expression was divine; and, as they glanced at me timidly, but with parted lips, in great bewilderment, I forgot all thoughts of their conversion in feelings that were far more earthly. I was dazzled as I saw one after the other, of whom I could only feel that each was the loveliest I had ever seen. Even in middle age they were wondrous comely, and the old grey-haired women at their cottage doors had a dignity, not to say majesty, of their own. The men were as handsome as the women beautiful. I have always delighted in and reverenced beauty; but I felt simply abashed in the presence of such a splendid type—a compound of all that is best in Egyptian, Greek, and Italian; but, perhaps, more like Giorgione at his ripest, than anything else. The children were infinite in number, and exceedingly merry; I need hardly say that they came in for their full share of the prevailing beauty. I expressed by signs my admiration and pleasure to my guides, and they were greatly pleased. I should add that all seemed to take a pride in their personal appearance, and that even the poorest (and none seemed rich) were well kempt and tidy. I could fill many pages with a description of their dress and the ornaments which they wore, and a hundred details which struck me with all the force of novelty; but I must not stay to do so, having many other matters to deal with.

When we had got past the village the fog rose, and revealed magnificent views of the snowy mountains and their nearer abutments, while in front I could