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the nature of the soil, and the practicability of forming a harbour for shipping."
For the purpose of fulfilling these instructions the ship's gig and cutter were provisioned for a fortnight and well armed, after which, under the command of Captain Stirling, they proceeded up the river. Mr. Fraser formed one of the party. No difficulties were met with until they reached the flats above Heirisson Islands (the site of the present Perth Causeway), where the water was too shallow to float the boats, which had to be unloaded and drawn across. After that the way was tolerably easy, and on the 13th they arrived at what they deemed to be the source of the river.
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The Swan River (from a Painting by J. W. Higgins, 1827)
"At daylight on the 13th," says Captain Stirling, "we were as usual in motion, and observed little variation in the appearance of the land as we ascended, except that the hills on the banks were higher and more frequent, and the soil upon them of a coarser description. They are here composed of a red sandstone, red clay, and an ochry loam, varying in colour between red, brown, blue, and yellow. The soil on the lowlands continued as good as ever. About an hour after starting we had the misfortune to stave the cutter on a sunken tree; lead and fearnought, however, speedily effected a cure, and we continued to pursue our course amid increasing difficulties from similar obstructions and from the decreasing width of the stream. The hills round us were high, and we ascended them with ease; but it was in vain that we sought a view of the country; we were the more disappointed because its character was evidently changing. At length, after several halts, we reached, about 11 o'clock, a spot where the river takes an eastern direction, just above a considerable creek on the left hand. We there found insurmountable obstructions to our further progress—in fact, we had reached the termination. Far beyond this there was the bed of a torrent, but no longer a river, nor even a continuation of water except in a succession of distant parts. Here, then, on a high bank we pitched our tent. The richness of the soil, the bright foliage of the shrubs, the majesty of the surrounding trees, the abrupt and red-coloured banks of the river occasionally seen, and the view of the blue summits of the mountains from which we were not far distant made the scenery round this spot as beautiful as anything of the kind I had ever witnessed."
During the course of the trip two gardens were planted about 15 miles up the river, and after some trouble friendly intercourse was established with the natives. The soil along the banks was examined and an abundance of fresh water found. An ascent of the hills, to which the name General Darling Range was given, was made by Mr. Fraser. The cutter then returned to the ship, leaving the gig, with Lieutenant Belches in charge, to make a hurried examination of a tributary river (the Canning), to which the French had given the name of Moreau Inlet. After her return the crew of the frigate was employed surveying the islands of Rottnest, Berthollet (now Carnac), and Bûache, as well as the adjacent rocks. On Bûache a garden was planted (from which probably the present name Garden Island was derived) and some cattle and sheep left there. The "Success" sailed for Geographe Bay on March 21. Here Stirling remained until the 25th, when he set his course for King George Sound, which was reached on April 2. He remained at the settlement, which did not come up to his expectations, until two days later, when he left for Sydney, arriving in Port Jackson on the 15th of the same month, having been absent about three months.
So far as their reports go, both Captain Stirling and Mr. Fraser seem to have been greatly impressed with the possibilities of the newly-examined country. The latter, who had certainly greater experience in judging, was if possible the more pronounced in his good opinion, and there is no doubt that his opinion was largely relied upon when the question of colonization was under discussion. In concluding his report upon the natural history, soil, etc., of the Swan River district he says:—
In delivering my opinion on the whole of the lands seen on the banks of the Swan, I hesitate not in pronouncing it superior to any I have seen in New South Wales eastward of the Blue Mountains, not only in its local situation, but in the many existing advantages which it holds out to settlers, viz.:—
- 1st. The evident superiority of the soil.
- 2nd. The facility with which settlers can bring their farms into a state of culture from the open state of the country, the trees not averaging more than ten to the acre.