Page:Archaeological Journal, Volume 29.djvu/156

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THE ANCIENT CHRISTIAN CHURCHES OF MUSR EL

to the south. Here, in a shrine or reliquary is preserved the arm of S. Macarius, and above hangs a picture of Abou Sephin. The pulpit, under which is buried a Coptic Patriarch, is of most exquisite workmanship, and is adorned with superb mosaics executed in marble intermixed with mother of pearl, and with Coptic inscriptions cut in white marble. Over the second screen is the text, "My soul hath a desire to enter into the Courts of the Lord." The third screen is superbly inlaid with ivory. The Iconostasis is also magnificent with inlaid wood and ivory, carved with the utmost taste, and some of the pictures above upon a gold ground are of unusual size, and apparently very ancient. Part of the pavement is enriched with patterns incised in the marble. The baldachino over the central altar is fine, and behind the altar is a superb circle of steps leading up to the patriarchal chair of white marble. The walls of the central apse are enriched with excellent Opus Alexandrinum, above which are disposed some very fine Arabian tiles. In this apse is a perfect wooden reading-desk of peculiar shape, and a beautiful ewer and stand of Arab work, adorned with blue and green enamel. In the chapel of S. Michael the seat-niche is lined with small old Arabian tiles.

III. Musr el Ateekah, Old Cairo, called also Dayr esh Shema, the name Musr el Ateekah not being confined to this walled village, but embracing also the neighbourhood.

The Jewish Synagogue, as has been observed, was anciently the Christian church of S. Michael, and is said to have been made over to the Jews by the Copts, in lieu of an unpaid debt, by decree of one of the Arabian Caliphs during the Middle Ages. In form it resembles a Basilica, and it is entered by a kind of porch, with a descent into it of two or three steps. The nave is separated from the side aisles by twelve ancient marble pillars, above which is a gallery, the clerestory being supported by eight more marble columns. The aisle runs round the west end, and the western gallery, under which is the entrance, is supported by a single pillar. In the apse, and above and around the niche, in which are placed the Holy Books of the Law, are arabesques and leaf-work, with inscriptions elegantly executed upon wood and plaster in Hebrew characters; and in the side aisles is some fine screen work, which, from its general character, and especially from the introduction of birds and gazelles or