Page:Ainsworth's Magazine - Volume 1.djvu/119
Thus armed, I ventured to dispute with the thirsty fourfooted claimants a draught of water, and having gallantly obtained it, I proceeded onwards till darkness overtook me. Under this emergency, as the moon rose at midnight, when I could continue my journey, I resolved to go out to the extremity of the next aqueduct I met, and sleep there in comparative security from wild animals.
What was my surprise, however, on approaching one of these ruins of former days, to find a fire lighted beneath an arch, and an old Bedwin Arab and a boy seated by its side. At my approach the old man started up, and lifting the club ordinarily carried by all his tribe in their girdles, prepared to strike: I laughed at him, and throwing down my stick, in sign of peace, sat down by the fire; the boy brought me water in a jug, and then burnt wet straw to keep off the mosquitoes, that hung like a cloud over the flame; while the old man offered me bread. To the questions I then asked, I obtained an answer, that the steamer had passed down the river that day; and the old man promised to be my guide, as soon as the moon should rise.
I had laid down to take some repose until that time, when another Arab joined the party; he had been out plundering, but it was upon a very small scale, for he exhibited his earnings, which were things not worth picking up on the road. This did not improve the notion I had formed of my guide, though it affected me too little to prevent my sleeping soundly. I was awakened by some one pinching my great toe, and found, on opening my eyes, a grotesque visage hanging over mine, lighted up by a radiant moonbeam. The other man and the boy were gone, as was also my stick, which was a comprehensible circumstance; but the old man was there. I rose and proceeded silently on my journey, scarcely knowing what I had to anticipate. The night before, I had secured the old man's service by the present of a gazi, on which occasion I had exhibited my empty purse; but Bedwin Arabs are not to be taken in by such subterfuges.
As we proceeded, therefore, I expected every moment to be joined by more guides than I required, or desired: my only hope was that the old man's cupidity would lead him to consider me as his particular prize, and that he would make the attempt by himself, so as to save participation of profits with any one; and this hope was happily verified.
Our road lay along the banks of the Euphrates, which was now seen to the greatest advantage in the moonlight, broad shadows being thrown on its lucid bosom by the dependent landscape.
In a short time, we began the ascent of some hills, the crest of which we had no sooner gained than my guide laid himself down on the ground, and scanned the naked upland that now extended before us. I sat down in the meantime. When he had finished his survey, he slowly muttered the words "No Arabs," as if he himself had not been one. He then came and placed himself by my side, in closer propinquity than was desirable, while he put forth his hand to examine the steel buckles of my braces, (for I wore no waistcoat,) which shone like silver in the moonlight. In doing this, his hand trembled, and betrayed his intentions. I rose quickly, and seized a stone, he at the same moment lifting his club, and holding out his hand, rubbing the thumb and forefinger together—a significant manner of asking for money, common to many parts of the world. The indignation with which I regarded my antagonist was now at its height. It is true he was tall and bony, but he was aged, and not even active; his forehead "villanous low," his nose long, his eyes red and purulent. It was, however, for our mutual advantage that peace should be established; so walking on, and keeping all the time beyond the reach of the club,—retaining, moreover, possession of the stone for fear of renewed hostilities, we argued the matter over in a pleasing and edifying manner. First, he asked for money;—I told him I had none: then for my fez;—I said I could not expose my head to the sun: then for an Arab kerchief I had tied round my waist;—knowing the value he would set upon this, I determined to propitiate him, if possible, and gave it up. He then put his club in his waistband, and a temporary confidence was re-established.
We now turned down a ravine, and then crossed some low hills, when my guide again resumed the recumbent position—the usual reconnoitring posture of the Arabs. I advanced, and to my delight, for it was just break of day, found the river flowing below, with inhabited islands on its bosom, and between me and it a cultivated and peopled country.
My guide went no further than this spot; it was in vain to urge him: he was as much in dread of fellahs as he might have been of Turkish authorities; so I