Japan by the Japanese/Chapter 18.4

The cultivation of tea in Japan may be said to have had its origin some two thousand years ago. At that time a Japanese priest visited China, and on his return brought with him some seeds of the tea-shrub. He sowed the seeds, and thus came into existence the first Japanese tea plantation. Beginning on such a small scale, for long the industry made but small progress. Much encouragement was given to the planters in the Middle Ages by the Imperial family. During the reign of Senin-Tenno (A.D. 131–192) a hundred priests were invited to the Imperial Court to read one of their books. On the second day they were served with tea called ‘hiki cha.’ This is one of the first mentions of tea in Japanese history. Unfortunately, it is impossible to learn in what way the tea was prepared. The Shogun promulgated special ordinances to induce the Japanese peasants to plant tea. This brought new life to the industry, and it rapidly rose to the position it now fills—namely, one of the staple productions of Japan.

In those early days the tea went by the name of ‘sen cha’; the methods of preparing it were much superior to those now in use.

In the year 1600, by means of different methods, two kinds of tea were prepared—‘hiki cha’ and ‘sen cha.’ At the time of the opening of Yokohama to trade, in 1859, the principal tea districts were Kyoto, Shizuoka, Mije, and Shiga. Also some spots in the centre and west of Honshin.

At first tea of the best quality was exported without any preparation, because there existed at that time no drying factory. While this was all right for best quality teas, those of lower grades lost their flavour so quickly because of the dampness that the foreign merchants found it necessary to have them dried again at Shanghai. This is how it comes that Japanese tea is often dried and packed in the Chinese manner.

About 1862 a foreigner opened a drying factory in Yokohama, to the great advantage of the export trade. The price of the Japanese teas was high because of its good quality. In 1868 a tea-market was opened at Kobe, but, as it was necessary to send the tea to Yokohama to be dried, it did not succeed materially.

In 1872, when America took off the import duty on tea, the export trade grew apace, and the price mounted. In 1874 the demand for tea grew so rapidly that the merchants took less ​care in the preparation of their teas, and some even adulterated their goods. A relapse in the trade resulting, the merchants still further adulterated their teas in order to recoup some of their losses. In this year an attempt was made to grow black tea, and the following year Chinese workmen were employed by the Government to this end. In 1875 a Government Commission went to China to study the preparation of green and black tea. In 1876 one went to India for the same purpose; on its return in 1877 it was sent to the Ken of Kochi to manufacture tea on the Indian plan. This tea, when submitted to foreign experts, won undivided applause for its excellence. The year 1878 saw a fall in the export of tea, and in 1879 a special congress was held in Yokohama to encourage the tea industry. In this year the tea harvest was so excellent that there was a great demand in America. All the available stock was exhausted, and, to satisfy the ever-increasing demand, many merchants adulterated their teas. This gradually brought about the inevitable result: the price of tea went down and the reputation of the merchants was lost. Seeing that something must be done, the tea-growers endeavoured in 1883 to form a syndicate, but failed. The Government then stepped in, and united them in a syndicate. The result of this wise measure was soon seen. In 1885 there was a considerable rise in the export of tea. In 1886 regulations for the punishment of wrongdoers were adopted. The tea-merchants also formed themselves into an association to control the growers and prevent any further chance of fraud.

Finally, in 1896, the State granted a subsidy of 70,000 yen to the central organization, in order to establish, under the control of the Government, offices in New York, Chicago, and Vladivostock. This tea-merchants’ and planters’ association contained the tea-merchants of each Prefecture, and had as an object the control and supervision of the producers in their various districts. In connection with these various tea-traders’ associations in each Prefecture there was organized a central board of the association in Tokyo to direct the local associations, and also to enable their representatives to meet together once a year to decide upon the best methods of manufacture and production. All the members of these associations bound themselves to continue along these methods of insuring excellence of quality in the tea for export during a period of twenty years. This association is an example of the desire of an exporting country to promote the good understanding and meet the wishes of the importing country. The statistics would seem to show that this care for the keeping up of the standard of excellence has not been without its result.

In 1897 the United States passed a law legislating against ​the importation of inferior quality teas, and providing for the inspection of all imported tea by fixed standard sample. The Tea-Traders’ Association at once established tea-inspection offices in Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki, and all the export tea is passed through the hands of the expert inspectors stationed in each of these centres. The tea is sampled, and then sent in bond to America, thus obviating any possibility of the bulk of the tea differing from the sample submitted. Bad tea is rejected, and thus all tea passing through these inspection offices bears a guarantee of a certain standard of excellence, which gives it an enhanced selling value.

As we have seen, the trade in tea with foreign countries found its beginning in the opening of Yokohama as a commercial port in 1860. This was accomplished principally through the agency of the Americans, and therefore, naturally enough, the first exports went to that country. Tea was among the most important of the early exports to America, and the people of the United States very early developed a liking for the beverage. Thus, the trade in tea increased very materially even in the early years of the New Era. Tea may be said to be the foundation of American-Japanese trade, since it made the name of Japan more widely known throughout America, and as a result many European goods were sent to Japan, and trade began to grow. America is still Japan’s most important customer for tea, and the Japanese tea-planters remember with gratitude that it is to America that they owe much of their prosperity. In 1901 the export of tea to the United States had reached a value of some 6,821,390 yen (about £700,000) annually. Canada also is a large buyer, the sales for 1901 being 1,676,026 yen. To China and Russian Asia there is considerable export, but, as yet, the European countries import very little Japanese tea, their demands being satisfied with Ceylon, Indian, and Chinese teas.

So important did the tea trade become with America that it was felt to be very necessary to take the requisite measures to insure the quality of the export tea. Also there was a desire to keep the prices moderate, so that nothing should be placed in the way of the extension of the export. It was feared that should all the merchants be allowed to compete one with the other, while the price might go down, the quality would also show a tendency to become less excellent.

Although the industry of tea-planting is generally only an accessory one on the farms, it occupies an important position among the exports. In Kyushyu and Shikoku wild tea is gathered from the mountains for the manufacture of black tea.

It is only rarely that the cultivator prepares the tea for sale himself. He usually sells the green leaves to the ​manufacturer or to the middleman. The manufacturers sell the tea to the wholesale merchants, who dispose of it to the export agents at the various ports.

There has recently been founded a purely Japanese company to export Japanese tea direct, but up to the present all the export trade has been in the hands of foreigners.

Yokohama is the most important export town, then Kobe and Nagasaki. The United States and Canada are the best customers, and after these China, Hong Kong, England, and Russia, in the order named.

The tea-shrubs will not grow further north than 38°, while the wild shrubs are principally to be found in the southern lands. The best black tea is manufactured from the wild leaves, while the greatest quantity of black tea comes from Formosa.

In Japan, tea is looked upon as a necessary beverage from the physical point of view. When taken in moderation, it is held that Japan tea strengthens the body and refreshes the mind. The nitric elements of tea known as ‘zeine’ serve as a stimulant to the circulation of the blood and a bracing up of the faculties. The social value of tea has grown enormously, and those are considered as lacking in hospitality who do not offer a cup of tea to any and every visitor. How many friendships have been formed from a first meeting over a cup of tea!

By chemical analysis, it has been shown that the most important of the elements of tea are nitric substances called ‘zeine’ and ‘tannin.’ The former evaporates easily and melts in hot water. Besides this, it has a stimulating effect, if in proper condition, and aids the circulation and the digestion. Taken in excess, however, it may result in injurious effects upon the nerves. Tannin is a more powerful element, and its principal physical value is that it strengthens the blood vessels and the membranes of the stomach and intestines.

It is, of course, most important that in the manufacture of tea the greatest care be taken to maintain the correct proportion of these two elements. Tannin must only be present in the smallest possible quantities, while zeine should be allowed in great quantity. The speciality of Japan tea is that while the tannin assists the process of manufacture by its fermenting power, no injurious results remain when the process is completed.

To summarize briefly the methods of manufacture of Japan tea: Fresh buds are picked from the shrubs; these are carefully steamed, and all particles of foreign substances are removed. Then the tea buds and leaves are rubbed and rolled between the hands, an even temperature being maintained on the drying-hearth. Great care is taken to insure the exact ​rules for the steaming, rolling, and drying of the tea, since in this lies the secret of the special flavour possessed by Japanese tea.

The special system of manufacture in vogue in Japan enables the tea to retain all its fine qualities, and thus those who drink it do so in the way that they naturally drink healthy and natural beverages. According to the experiments carried out over a period of more than forty years, a cup of tea, properly manufactured, is a stimulant both for the body and mind of anyone tired out from a day’s work. This beneficial effect is derived from the nitric element zeine, which in Japanese tea is present in large quantities. The good effects of tannin, taken in moderation, have already been touched upon. Thus, the chemical analysis of the tea proves it to be a beneficial and healthy beverage.

Japan tea has also the great value that all the tea which is exported has to pass a strict inspection and to receive a guarantee for the importing country. This fact insures the selection of the very best qualities of tea for the export trade.

The total production of Japanese tea in 1900 was about 62,000,000 pounds. Home consumption accounted for the greater proportion of the entire output.

The export value in 1900 was slightly more than £1,000,000. In addition to the tea grown in Japan itself, a small quantity was imported.

These figures do not include Formosa, which promises splendid results in tea culture.

Retail prices of tea per pound range from about twopence (English) to twenty shillings.