Beauty Culture (Woodbury)/Chapter 22

Heretofone facial massage has been considered chiefly as given by the hand. While this method is doubtless the best of all in the management of an expert who can apply his or her art to each part of the face under treatment, there is much in vibratory or mechanical massage to commend these methods, also, even to an expert, for occasional use.

Vibration, effected by mechanical means, may be given almost as gently, almost as carefully, as by the well-trained human hand, or it may be so carelessly and recklessly applied as to seriously injure the patient.

Its efficiency lies in the fact that the individual space treated in regional massage is of small area and that the movement—a gentle or a medium-strong concussion of circular nature, helps more rapidly than by hand to restore the relaxed tissue to a normal tone by increasing the blood supply of the part, and by causing passive movement of lazy muscles or those that have undergone fatty degeneration.

Furthermore, the massage thus applied is more even, more regular, than that given by the hand, and is less tiresome to the operator, who may be called upon to ​treat such a number of cases in a single day, as would, if treated with honest thoroughness, be likely to tire out a practitioner.

The vibratory instruments mostly in use hitherto have been those operated with an electrical current, but now the merely mechanical, percussive kind appear to be gaining favor, possibly because a great many persons are still afraid of electricity; although no direct contact of electricity is involved in the operation. Probably the rise in favor of the non-electric vibrators is due more to their simplicity and cheapness, since the very best electric vibrators are initially expensive, and—another point to be considered—are not easily transported. Besides, there is always the chance that even a very skilful operator may be suddenly inconvenienced by his electric vibrator getting out of order or the source of supply of his current being temporarily cut off.

Non-electric Vibratory Massage. In vibratory manual massage (putting aside the varying factor of the amount of personal magnetism which a masseuse may be able to exert and impart) only a few hundred vibrations a minute can be given, and a speed like this, as intimated, is apt to be not only wearing on the operator, but of irregular effect on the patient.

The best non-electric vibrator attains a far greater speed with far less exertion, and maintains it at uniform rate. When the operator becomes master of the instrument he can accurately control and definitely adjust the amount of "dosage," to borrow a term from the medical vocabulary. In this it possesses an advantage over the vibrators run by the electric current.

This kind of mechano-massage is of two sorts, in one of which the plane of vibration is parallel to the surface ​of the body; in the other perpendicular. The positions are illustrated in figures 123 and 124.

Fig. 123.PARALLEL NON-ELECTRIC VIBRATOR

Fig. 124.PERPENDICULAR NON-ELECTRIC VIBRATOR

The operator holds the handle in the left hand and turns the crank with the right, applying the vibrating pelot or applicator, to either the bare or clothed skin of the patient.

Electric Vibratory Massace. The instruments giving this treatment have electricity merely as a motive ​force; the current does not enter at all into the body of the patient.

The direct application of electricity itself belongs to the realm of therapeutics, and is therefore only touched upon here. That branch of science is in its infancy, the full physiological effects of electricity being not yet absolutely known. It may have after effects somewhat similar to those of frequent drug-taking. In other words, it may establish a habit, and artificial habits, when of a subtle nature, oft become fetters difficult to break as a ball and chain that a man must drag about with bim till they drag him into his grave.

The famous electrician, Nikola Tesla, once told the writer that, when tired, he was in the habit of taking "an electric cocktail"; that is, of administering to himself a certain number of volts. But no direct current comes from the electric vibrator, although it seems to give shocks by the great force of the vibrations produced, especially when the operator is unskilful.

In the more expensive electric vibrator, the motor is suspended from a bracket, or stand, and the vibrator to which it is connected with a flexible shaft is held in the hand.

In the more compact and cheaper kind the motor is part of the instrument, the whole being held in the hand, as shown in Figure 125.

This instrument is not only less expensive, but gives as good service as those of larger and cumbersome size, which cost more to operate because of the higher current consumption. Another fault of the larger machines is that the motor is so connected to the vibratory mechanism that it causes friction, twisting of the shaft and often breakage of the latter, when bent at sharp angles, as often is the case.

Fig. 125.VIBRATOR CONTAINING ELECTRIC MOTOR

Fig. 126.

Fig. 127.

Applicators. The vibration given off by any of these instruments, whether moved by crank or by motor, is transmitted to the face by applicators or peluts of various form. That most suitable for general facial massage consists of a hollow soft-rubber cone (see Figure 126). For this cone a sponge may be substituted (see Figure 123 on page 284).

The face is prepared for massage as heretofore described, leaving a thin coating of massage cream on the skin to facilitate the sliding about of the rubber applicator.

The applicator should never be used on the dry skin, ​as it will tend to erode or break the delicate scarf skin or epiderm.

For harder facial massage other applicators are used, as, for instance, to build up hollow or sunken cheeks or drooping, lifeless muscles in any part of the face, an applicator of fairly hard rubber, but flexible, and having a number of tips or projections upon its lower surface, is indicated. This is exhibited in Figure 127.

For the scalp the same applicator is used, or one having short, hard bristles, like a hair brush, may be substituted for it.

The movements for such facial vibratory massage should be similar to those given in hand massage, but the rules need not be followed quite so rigidly, since the amplitude of the vibrations is much shorter than the circular movements given by finger massage. In other words, the face, neck, and bust may be gone over generally, giving greater attention or more concentrated force directly to the parts requiring it.

Vibratory movements first of all stimulate the circulation, which, in turn, feeds the muscles and thus gradually develops them to their normal or a desired size and firmness.

Fig. 128.

Fig. 129.

Where the parts are to be reduced because of fatty deposits or over-development, the medium hard vibrations, with the applicator shown in Figure 128, or one consisting of a fairly hard rubber ball top, as in Figure ​129, are to be used, the soft-rubber one being for the rest of the face and the bust. Hard vibratory massage quickly reduces the fat and brings about a healthy and normal condition.

Each treatment should last about fifteen or twenty minutes. It should be repeated at certain frequent intervals, according to the physical condition of the patient, and kept up from one to three months. One or two treatments, aside from the exhilaration they temporarily impart, have little value.

Fig. 130.

The hard concave disc applicator, Figure 130, by the shape naturally suggests itself as a thing to use on all wellrounded surfaces, such as the stomach and limbs, but is frequently employed with excellent effect on heavy throats, baggy checks or double chins. The vibrations from this appear to have a sort of concentrated penctrativeness.

A roller, not unlike the ordinary garden machine (sec Figure 131) is often used with good effect on the cheeks, neck, and scalp.

When used on the cheeks, the direction of motion should be upward and inward a little, following the curve of the jaw. On the temples, it should be used also with an upward movement, but with more of a curve to the side hair, beginning the application of it just between ​the eyebrows. It may also be used very gently directly across the forehead from side to side. On the scalp

Fig. 131.

Fig. 134.

proper it may be used in all directions. On the throat it should be worked around with a slightly upward trend, and more than slightly upward in case of pronounced double chin or hanging cheeks.

Figs. 132 and 133.

The pestle-shaped applicator shown in figures 132 and 133 is employed for massaging the smaller parts of ​the face under the eyes, the alæ of the nose, and occasionally the cars.

Special vibratory massage around the ears is practised by some as a treatment for deafness. The sponge applicator (Figure 134) is excellent for this purpose.

Possibly this does help temporarily a deaf person or make him hear better for some time after treatment, but any claims of its effecting a cure for deafness of long standing are open to much doubt.

Effects of Vibratory Massage. A common characteristic of both of these forms of vibrators calls for comment, namely, that the applicator or pelot (which corresponds to the actual hand) is in constant contact with the bodily surface, which renders the vibrating pressure entirely different to that resultant from the repetition of tapping blows, or beating massage, technically called tapotement.

Vibratory massage, according to the claims of its champions, also possesses this advantage over the rubbing and stroking kind, that one does not need to put any lubricant on the body; grease is not a necessity, or semi-necessity, for purposes of easy manipulation.

Yet it may be replied to this that in many cases the lubrication of the skin with some cream or special skin food is a valuable adjunct in itself to the massage by hand.

Another claim of superiority for vibratory massage cannot be disputed, however. It is that the treatment can be given through one's apparel, as in the case of a tired back or a bust that demands development.

Then, too, the vibrator is a very handy thing to have about the house when one cannot easily reach a skilled operator.

​It is also a very useful thing for a professional masseuse to have at hand, either for the sake, as before hinted, of saving herself from over-fatigue, or for employment as a variant, in conjunction with manual massage in some special case, or to apply in cases where clothing cannot with propriety be removed. However, the direct contact of the instrument with the bodily surface to be treated is better whenever practicable, since on delicate tissues the pressures, or repeated imprints of the fibres of the clothing worn, might have, in course of time, a bad effect.

Moreover, just as the skin often shows to the trained eye of a hand-massage operator, skilled and bubbling over with high vitality of perfect health, that the massage has been prolonged enough, and that more might be distinctly inadvisable at the time, so to the skilled manipulator of a vibrator, the skin, when exposed, might often indicate clearly the same condition; which could only be guessed at through clothes.

It cannot be doubted that the vibrations produced mechanically are not only more rapid in their superficial effect, but are more deeply penetrating than those produced even by the most skilled and potent hand. This being so, caution as to over-use at once suggests itself. A too vigorous application may not only defeat the real object of the massage and so be a nullity, but it may go beyond and cause mischief. In beginning, it is well to practice extreme moderation and to work up gradually to a certain definite goal or maximum of treatment.

The local sensation caused by this kind of massage is that of a somewhat warm animation, in clear distinction to the sharp stimulation produced by the electric vibrator. There is never any stab of pain, except where the part operated on may itself be actively sore, and generally ​after a short application the soreness or stiffness disappears as by magic—and may never again return.

The general sensation, or sum of local sensations, or sometimes the effect obtained on the whole system from one local application, differs from the general sensation produced by other treatments more in depth than in any other way. The minute, swift, penetrant vibrations apparently work more on the internal organs, are more radical in their reach; that is, get deeper into and linger longer in the more secret parts of the system, producing a reflex action on the blood, skin, and nerves, in addition to the direct action they exert by first contact.

The specific action on the nerves is great. The sensory nerves are influenced to such an extent that impressions of pain vanish or diminish markedly. In other words, the sensory nerves are soothed. The motor nerves, on the contrary, appear to be stimulated, a thing of importance in cases of fatigue, or of prolonged nervous depression tending toward paralysis.

Other excellent effects that may be noted are:

Improved nutrition is given to the tissues by the acceleration of circulation in the lymph and blood vascular systems.

The lungs more easily absorb oxygen and more easily excrete carbon dioxide and other waste products.

Digestive capacity is considerably augmented, and muscular tone is visibly improved.

Glandular secretions are stimulated as also are the functions of the skin.

Several organs, practically unreachable by other forms of massage, give evidence of being well affected by mechano-vibration.

As to abnormal deposits and accumulations of the metabolic process, those indicated by gout, rheumatism, and ​certain chronic inflammations, it appears that vibration acts both directly and indirectly, either toward an elimination of them or an amelioration of the condition. Inasmuch as these infiltrates in skin, nerves, muscles, and joints often produce headache, vertigo, insomnia, or general debility, the preventive virtue of vibration is worth considering.

Besides the general toning up of the system, vibratory massage is directly valuable as a cure for obstinate constipation, supplanting the many pernicious cathartics now taken for this purpose.

Since mechano-vibration increases the vascular supply to the surface, with improvement in the nutrition and functioning of the skin, it renders the skin more pliant and youthful in appearance.

As will be seen, after considering its action in health, namely, a general stimulation of the blood and lymphatic circulation, it is clear that in certain conditions it must not be used.

Cautions. These are fevers, acute inflammations, abscesses, hemorrhage, œdema, etc., or it should only be used when prescribed, and the exact extent prescribed, by a competent physician.

Where consumption is present, or suspected, it should never be employed.

Where there is pronounced weakness of the heart, it should not be used.