Beauty Culture (Woodbury)/Chapter 13

​

In the following styles of hair-dressing, the Marcel Wave and the American Wave Coiffure, the curling iron is used, and therefore preliminary instruction will be given in the general principles of hair curling.

Many serious mistakes are made in curling the hair. It is generally believed that hot irons are a necessity to obtain the best results. This is not true. The iron, when used, should never be hot enough to burn the fin ger tip. It should be of good size and heated evenly over an alcohol stove or in a regulated electric iron heater. The spasmodic heating over a lamp or the gas flame is not only a dirty habit, but one sure to result in burning of the hair and uneven curling.

It is best, if possible, to devote at least from one-half an hour to two hours in curling the hair by the use of kid-covered curlers.

The hair should be combed out all about the head, aureole fashion, and strands of even quantity be rolled upon the curlers loosely to prevent injury to the texture, and pull on the roots. The hair, when rolled in spiral or cork-screw fashion upon the curler, should be wound from above down, not from below upward, to obtain a natural wavy effect.

​After the curlers are removed, the hair is combed out lightly and dressed.

The following is a prescription

Potassium Carbonate	120	gr.
Ammonia Water	1	dr.
Alcohol	12	dr.
Rosewater, enough to wake	16	oz.

Moisten the hair; then braid or roll it loosely, and it will curl upon drying.

To keep the hair in curl for a definite period of time, especially in damp weather, curling fluids of a harmless nature may be used. The hair is dampened with the solution before the curler or the iron is used.

These preparations, owing to their gummy character, should not be used very frequently, as they tend to harden and dry the hair and cause it to crack and break in combing.

A simple preparation is made as follows:

Gum of Tragacanth	¾	oz.
Rosewater	1	pt.
Oil of Sweet Almond	½	dr.

Break up the tragacanth into small pieces and soak in the rosewater. Allow to stand in a warm place and shake occasionally, until the gum is softened throughout, making a jelly-like mass, Strain the mass through muslin and a second time through botting cloth; then add the oil and mix thoroughly. Orange water instead of rosewater makes an agreeable variant.

Carragen Mass	1	oz.
Cologne Spirits	1	pt.
Orange Flower or Elder Flower Water	1	pt.

​Soak the moss in water under gentle beat until dissolved. Strain through cloth as in the above, and lastly add the essential water. Use as above directed.

Quince Seeds	3	dr.
Hot Water	1	pt.
Cologne Water	1	oz.
Oil of Lavender	15	drops

The seeds must be soaked in the hot water about three hours. Then strain as in former and add the resulting liquid to the cologne water, to which the essential oil has been added. Shake and use as the other preparations just given.

Another quince seed curling fluid may be made by macerating two tablespoonfuls of dried quince seeds and then soaking them in a cupful of water till the mass is like mucilage. Strain this through a cheesecloth and add a tablespoonful of alcohol for each ounce. Moisten the hair with this and put it up in kid curlers to dry. This will not darken the hair.

When the hair is inclined to be dry and lifeless, the following makes an excellent curling agent:

Gum Arabic Mucilage	1½	oz.
Glycerine	1½	oz.
Carbonate of Potash	1½	oz.
Rose Water	2	pts.
Portugal Extract	6	oz.

The potash must be dissolved in the rosewater. Mix the Portugal extract with the glycerine and shake thoroughly; then add the gum solution to it, shaking to make an even mixture. Then mix the two resultant liquids together and allow to stand one week before using. Employ as the other curling preparations.

​Marcel Waving. For some years past the Marcel method of waving the hair has been much in vogue and the charming undulations thus obtained have given the coiffure a style and beauty distinctively at variance with all other forms of hair-dressing.

The method differs from the so-called waving in that the undulations surround the whole head. This is termed hard waving, because the waves or undulations are more permanent and so give the hair a fixed or set look instead of the soft flocculence resultant from other methods.

Many pretty top or back hair effects may be obtained with it by the use of puffs or braids of false or of natural hair, according to the fancy of the individual, the features, and the amount of hair to work with.

Marcel waving has to be studied and practised with great care. The beginner is very apt to get the undulations irregular at first, and therefore it is deemed advisable to practise on a switch or, better still, a wig placed upon a block.

Good judgment, of course, is necessary in heating the iron properly, so as to have the right temperature; not too hot to injure or burn the hair, and not too cool to prevent proper curling. For this purpose the operator should always use a bit of paper first to try the iron, which never should be hot enough to scorch the paper.

For the heating of the proper curling iron the gas flame is not advisable, as it tends to smoke up the metal and thus soil the hair. Electric heaters are best; but usually the hair-dresser must resort to the next best heating device, and the alcohol lamp answers this purpose.

The alcohol lamp should be of ample size and heavy enough to remain in position so that it does not fall over at the least touch, for such an accident might inflict very ​serious burns on either patron or operator. The proper kind of lamp to use is shown in Figure 91. It is made of metal, nickel-plated, with an extension arm to hold the handle of the iron. The flame is narrow and long, so that all the parts to be heated are exposed to it. The

heating thereby is made practically the same, or regular, along the whole length of the two curling ends. Pure alcohol of the 95 per cent. variety should be used in it, as that burns evenly, and gives the best beat, and throws off no odor while burning.

There are many styles of these lamps on the market, but only those of the above principle and form should be used.

The proper curling iron to use is that of Marcel shown in Figure 92. These curling irons come in different sizes, but only the two medium ones are required.

The irons with metal handles are best to use, as they are not only more lasting, but much easier to keep clean. ​The foregoing instructions have given the necessary methods of preparing the hair, such as washing the hair free from all dirt and oily matter, and these, of course, should be followed here, as in all cases where curling

is undertaken. One of the curling preparations heretofore given may be applied to the hair before curling to render the undulations more permanent.

The hair, having been dried, is now thoroughly combed out evenly, dividing the hair aureole fashion and gath​ering the hair above the ring of hair to be curled on top of the head, as shown in Figure 54 on page 155.

The operator is now ready to begin marcelling. She should start at the right side of the head. Comb out a

strand of hair about three or four inches wide. Do not make it too thick, as this interferes with curling. Hold the iron groove inward or toward the scalp in the right hand, and with the left hand hold the strand of hair. Hold the iron in a perpendicular position, begin​ning the first curl just over the ear, but not too close to the scalp. The hair near the scalp is done last with the smaller iron, after all the hair has been waved.

Press the handles of the iron together, twist half a turn of the iron downward, giving it a downward pull at the same time. The step for the beginning is shown in Figure 93.

Allow the hair to remain in this position for a moment to obtain the curl and remove.

Now slipping the fingers of the left hand further up the strand, apply the iron again, placing in line with the first curl and about one inch above it, and again curl; this time pushing the iron forward as it is twisted downward, which gives the marcel effect (see Figure 94).

Continue along the whole strand quite to the end, making from five to seven of these curls in the strand, according to the length of the hair.

It is best, however, to leave the end of the strand free from curling, as the various strand ends may need to be treated in a different manner when finally gathered on top of the head.

The iron at the third curl should be pulled downward, at the fourth pushed upward, and so on, in zigzag fashion, as it were, to get the proper result.

The first strand having now been completed, the one behind it is taken up and curled in the same way.

The curls must always be made in line with those of the first strand to give the coiffure an even effect; and, to accomplish this, a small part of the first strand is included with the second to serve as a guide in placing the iron properly.

This regularity in the waves must be insisted upon, so that when the strands are adjusted and combed out ​finally not only will the waves match, but by their very evenness give a special accentuation to this method of hair-dressing not shown by any other style.

To convey the very best idea of the various steps, claborate and comprehensive illustrations are presented herewith which, faithfully studied, might themselves fit a student to gain the best results.

The step just described is given in Figure 95. Note, please, the position of the hands and the direction in which the iron is held.

​Do not forget the downward and upward movement in curling the second strand and all others thereafter.

Having finished the right side of the head, the operator takes up the curling of the hair on the left side.

The strands are combed out and divided as nearly alike in size and place as on the right side. It is held with the fingers of the left hand and iron in the right; but, instead of the handles being turned down, they are now held upward as shown in Figure 96.

The hollow groove should always be nearest the scalp ​or under the strand of hair. Make the curl the same distance from the head as on the right side, and continue along the strand, following the zigzag drawing of the iron as already explained.

The side hair having now been waved, take up the strands of front hair next, beginning at the right and continuing across the front of the head until the waves meet those of the left side. Use a small strand of the waved side hair as a guide for the front.

The position of the hands and the manner of holding and applying the iron is shown in Figure 97.

​

The front strands having been completed, take up the smaller iron and proceed to wave the strand near to the scalp with one wave for each strand between the scalp and the first wave made at the beginning.

Do not at any time forget the zigzag movement—the first movement downward, the second upward, and so on, until the waving of the strand, or the part of the strand, is finished.

The waves near the scalp having been finished, proceed with back hair.

Let the patron sit with the head bent slightly downward to allow the operator to work with best advantage.

Divide the hair into strands, after loosely gathering the hair already waved on top of the head. Taking a part of a waved strand from the last right side hair as a guide for the proper distance of the undulations, proceed to wave until all of the strands have been treated.

Then follow with the smaller iron for the waves near​est the scalp. The iron, during this procedure, as with the front strands, is held with the right hand, as shown in Figure 98.

The hair having all been waved as described, gather the various strands on top of the head, not drawing them too tightly, and pin them into place with the uncurled hair.

This is done by taking up the front section of strands first and pinning them into place.

The method of fixing the front hair must, of course, vary with the amount of hair in hand. A pompadour effect is to be preferred; that is, it should not be brought to the top of the head too tightly, as that would take away much of the beauty of the marcel effect.

​The side strands are next gathered up and fastened to the top hair as shown in Figure 99.

The back hair is next gathered up and treated as desired, leaving it preferably a little full instead of drawing it tight to the head.

The dressing of the top of the head may be finished off by making a cluster of small curls composed of the ends of the strands or top hair; or it may be simply twisted into a knot, as shown in Figure 100.

A coarse comb is now passed through all of the hair that has been marcelled, to join the various strands, and ​ ​to overcome the extreme stiffness or tightness of the undulations and give the whole an even appearance.

If desired, a little brilliantine may be put on the hair to give it lustre. This is applied with the finger and should be followed with the comb.

The hair may be marcelled again in a day or two by using the iron while the hair is made up, following, of course, the undulations made at the first sitting.

The American Wave Coiffure. This style of coiffure is similar to the celebrated Marcel wave and differs only from it by being done more loosely. The marcel hair dress is hard and tight. In this the hair is more loosely gathered, even fluffy.

The first step in accomplishing this style of hair dress is to part the hair all about the head in ring or aureole fashion, gathering all of the hair within the circle or on top of the head and tying it as in Figure 54 on page 155.

The outer section encircles the whole head, hanging down loosely over it.

This is now combed out evenly and divided into strands varying from three-fourths to one inch in width according to the thickness of each strand.

The strands must not, however, be very thick, as this will not permit of curling that will last.

If loose waves are required, have the strands wider.

For the very loose waved effect each strand is lifted with the comb in the left hand and the marcel iron is used, having the round part below the strand. This done, close the iron and twist it upward and backward to collect the hair on the curve of the iron, holding it there a moment and removing it.

It is best to begin such curling at the forehead, going toward the back of the head and around to the forehead ​on the other side, or doing both front and sides before touching the back.

The method of holding the comb and iron are here shown (Figure 101).

Having made one wave or curl, the iron is slid upward about an inch higher up, the comb receding with the iron, and a second curl is made, and so on, until to within about four inches of the end of the strand in the average person, this depending of course on the length of hair the patron has. Judgment, born of experience, will soon acquaint the dresser where to stop curling.

The curling should be done at regular intervals, so that the waves of one strand fall in line with those of the next.

The one strand having been finished, it is thrown lightly over the top of the head and the next toward the temple is taken up and curled as the first. The relation of the first to the second is shown in Figure 102.

Continue curling each strand as mentioned with the exception that, if the front hair is to be divided, it should all be done first, so that when combed with its part showing, whether in the centre or to one side, all the waves will fall regularly.

The true soft American wave is not done as just described. In this the strands of hair are made about one inch wide, and beginning with the first strand at the forehead it is wound around in cork-screw fashion over the round part of the curling iron, which should be about the thickness of the forefinger. The strand is wound up to about four inches of its end around the iron in this manner, practically filling the iron with a spiral roll of hair.

The iron in this case is held in the left hand and the strand wound on the iron with the right.

​ ​Curling too near the end of each strand tends to make it tangle.

If now a harder curl is desired, the concave or hollow part of the iron is pressed upon this spiral roll of hair and held there a moment.

The hair is now unwound from the iron and the next strand is taken and treated in the same manner, and so on until the entire aureole of outer hair has been curled. It is evident that the curling must be done regularly and with equal thicknesses as well as distances from the scalp.

The hair having all been curled in either of the ways suggested, a hair roll is placed with its thick roll or part at the back of the head and its points coming over the top of each ear. This is pinned into place and the waved hair is ready to be gathered up for the final dressing.

There now remain the ends and the top hair to be disposed of. These are gathered up and twisted into a knot, somewhat loosely, and pinned at the top of the head as shown in Figure 101.

The back hair or section is divided into three strands to get a better contour and gathered on top of the head next. This leaves the free ends all joining there where they are tied. The resulting switch or tail of hair if long and full enough is divided into two or three or more strands and each is made into a puff by rolling loosely over the index fingers, making finger puffs. Each puff so made is pinned into place, composing a neat cluster at the crown of the head. Use invisible pins for this purpose, bending them upon themselves to hold the hair more firmly, as single pins do not hold. Pins of angle form especially suitable for this purpose can now be found on sale almost everywhere.

​A Dutch braid may now be placed beneath the cluster of puffs with its wide part at the back of the head. The thin ends are brought around the cluster and tucked under it where they end at the top or front of the head.

One of the finished styles that includes the braid is shown in Figure 103.