Beauty Culture (Woodbury)/Chapter 11

​

Modes of wearing the hair among ancient peoples varied considerably, even in the same race. Among the Greeks the men of the more isolated tribes such as the Euboeans wore the hair long, while those of the great cities such as Athens and Corinth made use of the barber's shears. In other races we find a difference of custom in this regard among classes. The ancient Jewish priests were commanded to have their hair cut every two weeks when on duty in the temple. Nazarites, on the other hand, were prohibited from using any instrument on their faces or heads. In the course of time, however, the male Jews took to wearing their hair short, but the Jewesses never clipped their glorious ebon tresses, which they wore comparatively loose, and profusely beset with richly wrought ornaments of silver and of gold, with a great variety of gems or of rare stones.

The Egyptian women, on the contrary, preferred short hair. Cleopatra, so long on charms, was comparatively short on hair. Among the Romans, also, length of hair was not so much prized by women as peculiar or striking color.

​In the Northern nations, at the period when the shorthaired Romans were conquering Europe, both men and women wore their hair long, and loose, as if to assert their independence. The high esteem in which long hair was held by the Celts and Goths can be inferred from the fact that cutting it off was a favorite punishment for various crimes. The prison clip to-day is a survival of that form of humiliation—the visible mark of the penalty.

A close-cropped head was also, in olden times, a sign of slavery. Cæsar, to take the spirit out of the longhaired Gauls whom he captured, clipped their hair, and when he conquered their country made the inhabitants wear their hair short.

In France, during the Middle Ages, the length of hair was regulated by law to correspond with the many degrees of rank. Before this the French nobles as warriors had long been accustomed to wear their hair short; but as they grew more devoted to courts than camps, they reverted to the style of their early ancestors, and let their hair grow its full length.

Wigs. Wigs were worn by the ancient Egyptians, not from fashion, but as they are worn now, to cover baldness, or make up deficiency. The British museum has a few specimens of these.

Wigs, as a rule, were not worn by the Greeks, whose native æesthetic instinct revolted against artificiality in beauty. But the ladies of Rome, for the Roman as a race lacked the fine taste and sense of proportion instinctively possessed by the Greeks, exhibited an inclination to imitate the architectural character of their city by piling towers of hair upon their heads.

These masses, built on an invisible frame, embellished with rows of little curls down their sides, and frequently ​with long free curls also, gave them a grotesque, top-heavy appearance, and must have caused frequent, if not constant, headaches.

One can believe the statement that the trade in false hair flourished mightily then, and we are informed by Roman writers that the long yellow tresses taken from the heads of maids of Germany were the great staple in the Roman hair market. Descriptions of the fantastic extremes to which the belles of Rome went in the way of hairdressing read like the inventions of fancy.

Hair was not merely piled in towers, but was wreathed and frizzed to represent harps and harpstrings or to imitate the shapes of public buildings in Rome or those cities conquered by Roman arms, when a popular triumph was celebrated. Or, instead of these hair dreams of architecture, sometimes an enormous mass of foreign hair was plaited in with the natural, not over-long, hair of the Roman women, so that these trailing tresses, adorned with fillets of many hues, looped with gold, and bespangled with gems, almost swept the ground.

Against this absurdity and extravagance, even the vigorous voices of the great priests of early Christianity seem to have thundered in vain. The fashion held till the barbarians of the North overran Rome, and took vengeance for ages of oppression.

But even the mad fantasticality of the Roman hairdressing was eclipsed by the freakishness rampant in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries in France, and, to some extent, in England and the colonies.

The revival of wig-wearing came in France from the fact that Francis I., having received a severe scalp wound, came before his court with clipped hair. Louis XIII. brought back the fashion of length, and, as all men were not fortunate in this respect, wigs became ​common. In the next reign this fashion had become so tyrannical and absurd that going without a wig, or wearing only a small one, would subject a man to humiliation. Wigs, then generally made of silk, were worn descending halfway down the back, with ridiculous curls on the sides depending down the breast. In the next reign the wigs were powdered. They finally became of such monstrous size that the trade in false hair grew enormously. Wigs were also made of many things besides hair.

What women and men of fashion carried on their heads in those days gave them slight chance of carrying much in their heads, and finally took many of their heads off entirely. When that red tidal wave of wrathful democracy, called the French Revolution, subsided, wigs, periwigs, and perukes had been almost swept away. Napoleon wore his own hair.

Wigs lingered longer—we mean those of fashion, not of necessity—in conservative England, but began to be abandoned here in America about the same time as in France, if not a little earlier. Yet quite a number of the signers of the Declaration of Independence wore them. They are still worn in England by judges; big, white, full-bottomed wigs, that are supposed to symbolize the dignity of age and mental ripeness that a judge ought to possess. Hence judges are humorously referred to in England as "big-wigs."

It is amazing as well as amusing to think how some of our great-grandmothers used to dress their hair. A lady of that period who sought to keep pace with Paris fashions may have had her hair—with additions—built up on a frame of silver wires in the form of a frigate, a church with a spiral steeple, a pyramid, a tree, a huge conch, a bird, or a butterfly with wings outspread, or ​in the shape of a cluster of flowers, or a fish, or the signs of the zodiac, or anything else that perverted fancy could suggest or perverted ingenuity execute.

Even into the last century one survival of this monstrous style persisted for some time, and the writer remembers to have seen, when a small boy, one very old lady in New England who still had her plentiful white hair folded around an oblong cushion about a foot long, resting on the back of her head and tilting forward. Whenever she moved her head the structure seemed about to topple over.

Nowadays it is the mode to wear wigs that defy detection, and so great is the modern art of the wig-maker that more persons wear them than is popularly supposed. If Mr. Rockefeller, for example, had not had the early light of publicity beat on his bald crown, no one on seeing him now would think for a moment that he was wearing other than his natural hair.

Individuality in Coiffure. A woman should always try to find a style of hair dress suitable to her form of face and features. It is not necessary to make this elaborate. Ofttimes the simplest style is the most becoming.

She should be chary of changing this style when once found, because the growth of the hair will adapt itself to the manner of dressing. This, of course, does not mean that she should not indulge in an occasional ball- or evening-coiffure, but is intended to point out that a frequent switching from one to another style is harmful to the growth and beauty of the hair, because the hairs are twisted out of their natural course of growth, and parts of the scalp overburdened with heavy braids or rolls, pompadours and false pieces.

There are various laws to be observed always, all dependent upon the face and its features. Many women ​make themselves appear ofttimes ridiculous and sometimes actually ugly just by freakishly or thoughtlessly adopting a style of coiffure entirely unsuited to them. What is more grotesque than a fat round face covered with a low mop of ringlets?

Women with a round face should adopt a style in which the hair is narrow or close at the sides, and somewhat high at the top of the head, and massing well down the back of the neck.

Those having long thin faces should not wear the hair high, for that accentuates and emphasizes the length and leanness of their countenances; but should wear it wider at the sides and thicker in back, to round out the face.

Those of broad face should dress the hair closely at the sides and quite high.

A sharp-featured, long-nosed woman should dress her hair low and rather full at the sides, but not full in the back at the crown of the head.

As a rule short women should cultivate as high a coiffure as is consistent with the face, while tall persons should dress the hair low and fuller at the sides and neck.

When one takes into special consideration the style of hair dress suited to the individual, naturally a great variety of coiffures, too numerous to describe, suggest themselves. This consideration again is influenced markedly by the quantity of natural hair the wearer has, or the number or style of added pieces she may be willing to wear for the desired effect.

Since the pompadour style has become so much in vogue and gives such pleasing effects, this style of hair dressing may be considered best for home or street wear, when suitable to the features of the patron.

​Fixed Types of Coiffure. Of course, this implies that any style of hair dress may be adopted, but since the student must follow some fixed course of procedure it is thought best to demonstrate here those styles most generally used as fixed types, as well as guides from which a great number of other coiffures may be developed as the operator becomes acquainted with the effects she can achieve by making slight changes from those herein considered.

Let it be understood first of all that every head differs both in shape and the quantity of hair it carries. Consequently the operator must not be disappointed if, by following the directions given here for the completion of any style, she does not get the desired result—that is to say, when the hair is thin and short or thick and short different results are obtained, but any effect can be obtained by using judgment in the use of the addition of a switch in one, or roll in another, a pompadour, cluster, or any other artificial piece.

The made-up pieces of hair that may be used will be described in connection with their use. They are principally meant to make up for hair that is thin or insufficient, and lastly to give pleasing effects.

In the former class are the pompadours, transformations, rolls, braids and cluster puffs, and in the latter class pin curls, grape and cluster curls.

Before beginning what seems to be a most complicated study, but in reality is a course of pleasant acquirements which any one may follow without confusion, let the author offer one last word of advice, and that is, experiment. Always experiment. Get some lady friend or friends to practise on, and with patience and perseverance the intricacies of hairdressing will vanish like magic, and a sense of assured skill will take their place.

​Fundamental Forms of Hairdressing. To begin with, the operator must follow some system of nomenclature or naming of the hair as it is divided into parts. By referring to Figure 48 the student may observe four divisions of the hair on top of the head, which divisions are. numbered and named as follows: 1. Front section. 2. Left section. 3. Right section. 4. Back section.

The front hair section may be varied in size by the location of the parting. This may be made very near the forehead across the top of the head, or far back, very near the ears, according to the style of coiffure to be made.

​The side hair sections vary also in size according to the amount of hair, but much less so than the front section. They may be made in one or two parts on each side, according to the amount of hair and the style of dress.

The back hair section also varies in size naturally, as the others and for the same reasons. It may be made into one or two braids, one or two loose switches or a number of curls, a cluster or variously shaped knots.

Home Coiffure. For the home or street coiffure the hair, after being combed out thoroughly, is divided into the four sections shown in Figure 48. Each section may now be curled lightly to give it a fluffy or full effect.

This having been done, the operator is ready to adjust the parts or sections.

If the front and side hair is thin, a transformation piece is laid across the top of the head or, better still, from a point just above or slightly above and behind the ear, and across the head to the same point opposite.

It is pinned into place with hairpins at different points by the net to which the false hair is fastened. This net piece or lace foundation is shown in its pinned position in Figure 49. It is numbered 5 in the diagram.

Comb the hair of the transformation, which ought to be of the same color as the natural hair, in with the natural, but not too thoroughly, so as not to destroy the curling that has been done.

Now gather up the front section and adjust it in a sort of roll fashion over the forehead, bringing the free ends over the top of the head. Tie the free end, leaving as much loose end as the length of the hair will allow. A string may be used for this purpose, but a rubber band not too tightly applied will answer better.

Next tie the back hair rather near to the head. This ​

will keep the hair in place while the sides are being adjusted.

Now take up each side section, rolling it upward and inward if there is sufficient hair as shown at A in Figure 50. Some hair-dressers prefer to roll the hair inward. But this makes it more difficult to fix in place by pinning and much more liable to become disarranged.

The front section is shown at B in the same figure.

Do not roll up the hair tightly, but just firmly enough to give it body or shape. Never tighten the hair very much, for this not only injures it, but gives a flat appearance.

​Pin the side into place so that it is firm, but not so firm as to be uncomfortable, and repeat the same with the other side. This done, comb the sections lightly from the face upward so that the partings on the sides with the front will not show at the same time, lifting the comb outward further to fluff the hair and give it the easy effect of nature.

This accomplished, insert a back comb of any desired style about the top of the head or a little back of this point, as shown in Figure 51.

This leaves only the free end of the front hair and the back hair section to be adjusted. If the front hair back of the comb is sufficiently long, it may be combed in with the back hair.

The back hair may then be gathered up as a roll similar to the front hair, fixed at the top of the head with ​the back comb, and fluffed out as directed with the front and sides, making sure that the loose ends are not shown on top of the head; or, if there is enough hair, the ends may be divided and curled into a number of small curls, which may be artistically pinned into place so that they fall down upon the back of the head, where they are fixed with small hairpins; or the back hair may be divided into two or three strands and curled over the fingers and fixed into place at the back of the head in a cluster.

​If the hair is too thin in this section, the hair is rolled upward and pinned, and a cluster of two or more puffs is pinned to the back of the head rather low and downward. The finished effect is shown in Figure 52.

In place of the cluster puffs a switch may he added to the back hair with which the same results may be attained as given for the natural hair. A deft touch with the comb here and there will give a finished appearance to the coiffure. The addition of a small pin curl about the left temple often adds much to the general effect.

Tie Simple Pompadour. Another coiffure for home wear of much simpler style is that of the plain or parted pompadour.

In this coiffure one part is made across the top or crown of the head extending from back of the car to the other car, separating the hair into a front and back section.

​ ​

The front hair is combed out as in Figure 53, and is curled or waved and gathered up on top of the head, slightly to the back, and pinned into place. A transformation may be used or a roll placed under the hair, if thin, to keep it in shape and to raise it sufficiently for the desired effect.

The back hair is then braided into one braid and gathered into a cluster knot and pinned into place at the back of the head or simply gathered at the top of the ​

head by being collected in roll fashion and pinned into place, using a back comb to fix the front and back sections.

​A roll or switch may be added to give form to the back section.

The hair is then lightly combed out to cover the side partings.

All the free ends of the back hair must be tucked away, as they give a disorderly look not only to the simplest but to the most stylish and complicated coiffures.

The Divided Pompadour. If the divided pompadour style is desired, the hair is divided either at the centre of the forehead (see Figure 54) or to one side (see Figure 55), the two sides being waved more fully and gathered as in the plain style. A transformation or parted pompadour may be used with advantage. The ​back hair may be simply gathered in a roll or be waved and pinned loosely to the back of the head in cluster fashion (see Figure 56), or braided and gathered into a knot and pinned into place. A back comb adds to the effect and helps to hold the whole coiffure.

If desired, a cluster of puffs may be pinned over the rolled-up back hair with very pleasing effect, as shown in Figure 57.

The Psyche Knot. For the psyche knot coiffure the hair is parted into four sections, as shown in Figure 58, and waved. The front and side sections are gathered at the top of the head, pompadour fashion, as already fully described; but the back hair is divided into two strands which are combed out and rolled over the finger into two long curls. These are gathered into a cluster knot, pulling the centre section or curl outward. The distance this part of the curl is pulled outward depends, of course, on the amount of hair to be worked with, or on the taste and desire of the patron.

​A switch may be used to fill out the back hair sufficiently to accomplish this. A back comb is used and celluloid pins and hairpins to fix the whole into place.

The whole coiffure is then gone over with deft touches of the comb to give it neatness and evenness.

The Swirl or Turban Coiffure. This new style of wearing the hair is a radical departure from the old methods, and requires study and practice to be done successfully. Its purpose is to give the effect of a loose dressing of the hair which at the same time is sufficiently secure not to come down. If "the highest art is to conceal art," this is the climax of hair-dressing, It is especially adapted to women with small heads, pretty foreheads, low brows, and plenty of hair. If the hair is not abundant, a switch may be used, but with no hope of deceiving the beholder, since the artificial hair, which is swirled around the crown of the head, is in startling contrast to the natural hair, which is parted in the middle of the forehead.

The woman with plenty of hair of her own parts her hair in the middle, brushing it thoroughly to secure a gloss. The hair is now divided into strands, starting just above the parting about two inches higher than the head and separating the hair which falls on each side of the face. This is fluffed and ruffed and drawn back from the face, and knotted over the rest of the hair at the back. All the hair is then drawn tightly together at the back and secured with a tape or a small strand of hair (see Figure 39).

Then the long hair is swirled around the head in turban shape, either without being braided or twisted (see Figure 60), or with a braid (see Figure 61), and is secured at intervals by square combs of tortoise-shell, ​

or with any of the ornamental hairpins which come for that purpose.

When artificial hair is used in this coiffure it is arranged on a wire frame (see Figure 62), with a ribbon

​about the edge (see Figure 63), or a braid of artificial hair.

The wearer's own hair is parted in the middle, drawn loosely back, and knotted firmly in the middle of the head. Over this the dressed frame is placed, the false hair, of course, matching in appearance the natural. Figure 64 gives the completed coiffure.