Among the Ibos of Nigeria/Chapter 3

For many years intercourse with the Ibos was limited to those dwelling in the neighbourhood of the factories scattered here and there on the river banks. The traders had no special interest or inducement to penetrate into the interior, for trade filtered through to them, and the river afforded every facility for transport. They had simply to select suitable centres, and there barter for the produce brought in by land and water.

Missionaries itinerated in various directions, but with no striking results. Eventually the lines of advance shaped themselves directly east and south of Onitsha on the one side, and west of Asaba on the other. There was no lack of reports from the interior. In the eastern hinterland the raiding expeditions of the Abams¹ were a fruitful source of fear, and the havoc wrought by the Ekwumeku² on the western side provided a topic for endless discussion in the streets and markets.

Nor were these fears groundless. Cannibalism, human sacrifices and other savage customs were real facts, and flourished within five miles of the outskirts of Onitsha, and no one would dare swear that the inhabitants of even that town were all entirely innocent! It is well within living memory that, human sacrifices were offered, the death and burial of a king or notable chief being the most usual occasions.

At one period I was living in a tiny hut set up in the bush some five miles east of Onitsha surrounded by a number of towns. Between two of these there was a feud of long standing. At intervals war broke out in earnest. ​During the last campaign one party captured, and after­ wards ate, seven of their opponents, whilst the other party secured only four victims. Regularly I visited the village of the attacked tribe, and was given a quiet, if not en­ thusiastic reception. The Chief, in whose house I would sit down, used to listen quite placidly to the conversation. He would recline upon the goat-skin thrown on the floor, or quite frequently he would use the occasion to grind up snuff. Leaves of tobacco were parched in a potsherd, and then ground with a small wooden pestle in a crude mortar. After perhaps an hour’s discussion, the Chief invariably brought the interview to an end by declaring that he and his people would be quite ready to take heed to the words spoken on the one condition, that I would first of all assist them. It was always the same request. The enemy had secured three more men than his people had captured; if I would guarantee to arrange for three men to be handed over to balance matters, then they would be able to attend to other things. I might add that the account has never been settled to their satisfaction!

At that time I was accustomed to wander freely from village to village, very often unaccompanied. One morn­ ing I was walking alone when I came upon a bundle of sticks lying in the path; to this was attached a clean and fresh human skull, which I judged from the teeth and size to be that of a young man. It had been utilised as a fetish. It would act as a solemn warning to would-be thieves, and such a powerful “ju-ju” would ensure the owner finding his property intact, however long it was left on the road. It was in close proximity to this place that, as was well known, a cannibal feast had lately been held.

Amongst our lads there was a small boy whose father had been a servant to the Niger Company. Whilst carry­ ing a message to Obushi, the father was murdered and his body disposed of according to time-honoured custom.

On one occasion I was resting outside my hut when a man of unprepossessing appearance came along and entered into conversation. His eldest son, then a small lad, had been placed by his father in the care of a mis​sionary, in order that he might receive instruction. In the course of his remarks he solemnly asserted that it would be of great benefit to his son if he were provided with human flesh sometimes as part of his diet. He maintained that, if this were done, a proper man’s spirit would develop in the lad.

The Royal Niger Company concluded many treaties with native chiefs and kings during their period of administra­ tion of the country. By these treaties certain rights were conceded to the Company, and they in return, granted among other considerations, a promise of protection. The people of Awkuzu had ever been a truculent crowd, and raided not only on their own account but went further, and procured bands of Abams to assist them in their predatory excursions. An appeal to the Company for protection was made by a town in the neighbourhood, and in due course troops were dispatched to cool the ardour of the disturbers of the peace.

The majority of the carriers employed for the soldiers were Onitsha men, and this is the story related concerning some of them. After some preliminary fighting, the troops entered Awkuzu and settled into camp. When all was apparently quiet a party of carriers considered the time was opportune for them to secure their share of the loot, and they went away bent on plunder. But the Awkuzus were wily men. They had anticipated the move and had planned a deliberate trap for possible looters. Some goats were placed in one of the compounds and the Awkuzus secreted themselves in the neighbourhood. Presently the gang of carriers arrived, attracted by the goats, and they walked right into the ambush. Some fought their way back to camp, but seventeen were left dead or alive, in the hands of the Awkuzu braves. The story is that of these the dead were eaten first, and later the wounded followed the fate of their comrades. Those who were uninjured were trussed up like fowls, and in this way kept until required.

Towards the south, cannibal tendencies assumed a worse aspect. All that has been said hitherto relates to the prevalent custom of feasting upon captives taken in ​war. In the southern districts a regular traffic in human flesh was carried on. Strangers were caught, or slaves purchased, with the deliberate intention of converting them into food. Human flesh was a marketable com- modity, and a common article of diet. It is not long since a certain chief managed to get possession of one of his opponents against whom he had a grudge of long standing. He derived satisfaction from first lopping off the captive's ears and nose, and then flaying him alive. The carcase was eaten and the skin converted into a drum- head.

There is not a shadow of doubt that, could the history of the Ibo country be clearly traced, a host of suchlike stories would have to be recorded. I have become ac- quainted with many erstwhile cannibals, and quite good- natured folk most of them are. One week-end I was stay- ing at a town a few miles S.E. of Onitsha. My quarters were very circumscribed, the only accommodation available being a tiny thatched lean-to shed against the compound wall, usually occupied by the goats and fowls. My boys and carriers shared the limited accomodation, lying at night alongside the camp-bed. After the evening meal, we settled down for the night, long before our customary bedtime; consequently the men chattered freely. Pre- sently I became interested in the conversation, and amongst other items of news, gathered that they had all had a share in cannibal feasts.

At first they were reticent, but gradually they opened out and announced what they considered to be the choicest tit-bits; these, they affirmed, were the knuckles. They were strapping young fellows whom I had got to know sufficiently well to induce them to travel round with me. Since then they have all become Christians, and one is a very successful and much respected evangelist.

In the late autumn of 1900, an opportunity presented itself for extending our knowledge of the country lying west of Asaba. Our party consisted of volunteers from amongst the native adherents, and we proceeded through the country as far as a large town called Abwor (Agbor). At the time the king still regarded himself as tributary to ​his majesty of Benin (in spite of the fact that there was then no king reigning there), and was acknowledged as second in prestige throughout the district. The first even­ ing that I walked about Abwor I found a shrine with a human skull upon the altar, and I ascertained that the same views were held as regards human sacrifice that were held in Benin prior to the expedition of 1897. In 1904 came the Rising of the Ekwumeku (commonly, but pro­ bably incorrectly, described as the “Silent Ones”). An immense amount of damage was done before the in­ surrection was quelled, whilst not long after, the massacre of one of the district commissioners, with his escort, ushered in a further period of trouble for the Government.

In such circumstances the carrier problem was a difficult one. Owing to the unsettled state of the country, it was not easy to persuade men to accompany one on journeys that took them far from their homes. Even when one got a following it was quite uncertain whether the men would stick to their task or desert, and one might find himself in an awkward and irritating predicament. On a certain occasion a compact was made between myself and another missionary. We arranged to leave our respective quarters on the same day, and for our routes to cut one another at a fixed point; my companions would then join his party and the canoemen who had brought him up the creek were to convey me down to Onitsha. The distance was not great, and soon after 2 p.m. (after some eight hours on the road), I arrived at the appointed spot on the bank of the creek. My colleague was to land a few miles further up and, as they returned down-stream, the canoemen were to look out for me. A couple of miles before we reached the creek, my companions, with the exception of one lad, struck northwards in order to intercept the other party. On arrival at the water’s edge we looked for the canoe, but our expectations ended in complete disappointment, for it never appeared. I had no kit with me, our food was exhausted, and altogether the situation was rather humiliating. Hour after hour went by and the sun went down. Finally, we came across an old fisherman who, ​seeing we were completely at his mercy, agreed to paddle us down river, at his own price. He conducted us to his primitive landing stage, but no canoe was visible. In reply to our inquiry as to the whereabouts of his craft, he merely gave a curt nod in the direction of the water. He then waded out up to his middle, dived down and fished up his little “dug-out” from the bottom. It was badly battered, and before embarking the man had to plug several holes with clay. As the canoe was only intended for one, the added weight of two passengers was almost too much for it. It was a ticklish business getting aboard, and even more difficult to make headway. The ordinary canoeman never sits on the floor, but on the gunwale or the small flat stern piece. From start to finish my business was to bale out for, being so deeply laden, we shipped water at every stroke of the paddle. Darkness soon fell, and almost immediately we struck a submerged tree, and were only saved from disaster by the smart movements of our navigator. To illustrate the skill of these canoemen it may be mentioned that when it became dark our man— a tall and heavily built individual—carefully raised him­ self, stood up in the stern, and balanced himself with a foot on cither side of the canoe. In this position he paddled with long sweeping strokes. He maintained this attitude for some four hours, only resting once when we were forced to run to the bank for shelter whilst a powerful breeze was blowing. When a strong-wind blows, especially up-stream, the waters of the Niger are rough and dangerous for small craft.

On arrival at my destination, I ascertained that my colleague had fulfilled his part of the programme and had proceeded up the creek. Soon after landing, however, panic seized the men because they thought they were expected to act as carriers for the land journey. Hence, after depositing the loads, a rush was made for the canoe; they cast off from the bank and never rested until they were home again. My colleague fared worse than I did, inasmuch as the influence of the first deserters led to most of the remaining followers also leaving him, and he did not come in until a week later, all his plans having been ​frustrated, to say nothing of his having spent an uncom­ fortable time adrift in the bush.

The plan I usually adopted (and do still) when travelling in the Ibo country is a simple one. If but a short visit to a strange town was intended, I went accompanied by not more than two natives, one of whom would have some knowledge of English and be capable of rendering assist­ ance should any language difficulties arise. For a more prolonged stay three carriers were added to the party, and we were seldom more than half a dozen in number. Such a small company aroused no suspicion, more especi­ ally because it was obvious to the inhabitants that we carried no fire-arms. Our numbers might have been reduced yet further, but there are no beasts of burden in the country, and therefore all loads have to be carried by men. Unless a direct invitation had been received from someone else I made a point of going straight to the house of the paramount chief and of putting myself under his protection. This plan was invariably successful. Having explained the reasons for our visit and allayed any sus­ picions he may have entertained, we were able to converse on easy terms. Immediately this stage was reached the chief would indicate that kola nut should be brought and once this was shared we were quickly on friendly terms.

The Ibo is very hospitable, and many of the chiefs are nature’s gentlemen. Sometimes it came to our knowledge that we had ventured into what might have been awk­ ward situations, but, personally, I noted suspicious fea­ tures on but the rarest occasions. Being naturally of a highly nervous disposition, my mind was often assailed by imaginary troubles prior to starting on tour, but having begun the journey, these were quickly forgotten in the keen interest of the expedition. As all travelling had to be done on foot, by the time our destination was reached I was too fatigued to think of anything but food and rest. The depressing times, as already stated, were when we journeyed through a downpour of rain, and crept into camp miserable and chilly, with all our belongings soaked with water. Cheerfulness is a special grace in these cir­ cumstances. Matters improve, however, after a rest and ​food, and it is not long before the discomforts of the way are forgotten.

Contrary to the general rule of making a very earlr start I prefer waiting until after breakfast, and frequently choose the afternoon hours for travelling.

During my early days it was the custom to rise at an unearthly hour, strike camp whilst it was still dark, and get off as dawn appeared. This meant disturbed and cur­ tailed rest, being nipped by voraciously hungry mosquitoes which had hunted all night for their prey, and bad tempers a11 round. It was too early to eat anything substantial, and yet one knew that not to do so meant reaching mg point before the next meal was forthcoming. The mornings may be either chilly or oppressive, and every­ thing is drenched with dew. Often and often one has been wet through to the skin within ten minutes of starting, and cold dew is distinctly uncomfortable. It also meant marching in wet clothes until the sun was well up to dry them. It occurred to me that this was anything but a healthy practice, and hence I tried starting at later hours. I now infinitely prefer setting forth at a reasonable hour of the day, after one has been able to partake of a sub­ stantial meal with some measure of comfort. The heat and glare are sometimes trying, but these drawbacks are more easily endured than the depressed and sinking feeling necessitated by early starts.

Travelling in this simple manner I was never once molested, and have never had cause to grumble at the treatment meted out to me at any of the places visited, however evil the reputations they may have borne.